THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 41 



and the mulching had to be continued; this mass of mulching made a great 

 insect harbor, and in a few years little brown borers killed the vines to the ground. 

 Have since cultivated with better success. Elvira stood winter and all unfavor- 

 able conditions best of all; Clinton did very well. The winter of 1898-'99 

 killed most of the vines in this county to the ground, yet some vineyards did 

 not seem in the least injured, and produced a crop the following year. 



JOHNSON KELLER, Arkansas City, Cowley county: I am growing Concord, 

 Worden, Niagara, Delaware, Martha and Ives on rich, black, sandy loam, which 

 causes them to grow too largely to vines ; my land slopes slightly to the east and 

 south. I have discarded all excepting Concord and Worden, because of rot. 

 Those two do the best in my soil. I spray every year, but so far have failed to 

 stop the rot. I prefer one-year-old vines, set eight feet apart; cultivate with a 

 shovel-plow ; prune closely in February. Have a wire trellis. I summer prune, 

 and think it makes the grapes larger. Have never bagged grapes, and do not 

 advise it, as I do not think they are as good to eat. Gather in small baskets and 

 market at home. I realize from thirty to fifty dollars ; they do not pay with 

 me. Have put up some unfermented [?] grape juice; we put the grapes in a 

 barrel and pound well, let leach, put into a whisky keg, and cork tightly ; keep 

 in a cool place. I have watched grape culture in Kansas for twenty years, and 

 am fully convinced that a limestone soil is much better for grapes than rich, 

 sandy bottoms. They do well in this county on the poorest upland limestone 

 soils. 



J. H. BILSING, Udall, Cowley county : I am growing Concord, Dracut Amber, 

 Delaware, Niagara, Empire State, etc., on level black loam mixed with sand* 

 Have tried and discarded Prentiss, Clinton, Goethe, and Pocklington. I would 

 recommend Delaware, Concord, Niagara, Dracut Amber, Empire State (this 

 latter variety rots and drops badly some years), Moore's Early, Brighton, and 

 Hartford, which is similar to Concord, but larger. Varieties tested experiment- 

 ally are Agawam, Early Ohio, Ives, Worden, and a seedling of fine quality, 

 medium early. The three first are just beginning to bear. I prefer vines one 

 year old, set eight feet apart; till with hoe and cultivator; prune in early spring. 

 At present, for supports, I use stakes only. I consider them a decidedly paying 

 crop for the labor expended on them. I have had excellent success with grapes 

 when mulched with old hay or straw. They were about as near perfection as we 

 can get them in this hot, dry climate. They were of good size, color, and excel- 

 lent quality, and hung on much longer than those that were not mulched ; in 

 fact, I think that is the most successful way, barring irrigation. But I also 

 find that when once mulching is applied, it should be kept on and renewed, for if 

 once removed the vines are at once checked in growth. Mulching seems to in- 

 duce the roots to come nearer the top of the ground, and the reaction from its re- 

 moval is certainly injurious, as the fruit shows for itself. Some seasons grapes 

 rot and fall badly, but I think the birds cause a greater loss every year. Have 

 often thought of bagging, but, as yet, have not tried it. 



J. MONCRIEF, Winfield, Cowley county: I prefer a sandy loam, or upland 

 fertilized with bone; an eastern slope is best for the fruit, but they will do 

 well on level ground. I have Concord, Worden, Moore's Early, Niagara, Pock- 

 lington, Norton's Virginia, Agawam, Elvira, Goethe, lona, Moore's Diamond, 

 Diana, Wyoming Red, Salem, Dracut Amber, Perkins, Ives, Lindley, Clinton, 

 and Delaware. I would recommend Moore's Early, Worden, Concord, Niagara, 

 Moore's Diamond, Agawam, and Goethe. I plant one- or two-year-old, No. 1 

 vines; weak-growing varieties eight feet apart; strong-growing varieties eight to 



