8 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



PROPAGATION BY SEED. 



New varieties of the grape can only be obtained by propagation from seed. 

 Many of our prominent and useful varieties were accidental seedlings that fell 

 into the hands of wise and careful horticulturists. But many vineyardiets are ap- 

 plying themselves to the propagation of grape-vines from seed of known parentage, 

 the blossoms being fertilized by hand and seed thus obtained carefully labeled, 

 and the little seedlings tended to in a most solicitous manner. 



In Kansas our fruit should be like our people, vigorous and up to date; 

 therefore do not plant grape seeds from vines of any but the best varieties, of vig- 

 orous growth, strong, thick foliage, free from mildew, and hardy ; also be sure 

 the grapes are ripe. Do not even then expect too much. Grape seedlings are 

 not like grape cuttings, and are often frail, delicate, and puny, requiring your 

 close attention until they are able to cope with the world. Another thing : do 

 not pull up the weaker or delicate ones as soon as a few vigorous ones come into 

 bearing ; the chances are that the delicate and backward ones may have the bet- 

 ter fruit. The vigorous early bearers may take after a wild ancestor. 



PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 



From Caiman's Rural World. 



In pruning vines, the wood of which I wish to propagate, I merely cut loose 

 from the trellis, cut out the old wood that is to be abandoned, and cut the lateral 

 branches and tendrils off; then, afterward, cut them to the proper shape, carry- 

 ing the wood in canes to the house to dress the cuttings ready for planting, which 

 I have often done in the fall with success. Owing to the danger of having them 

 heaved out somewhat by frost, I have for many years planted them out in the 

 spring. Make the cuttings six to ten inches long, according to the joints, as a 

 cutting should have two or three eyes, and some short- jointed varieties may have 

 four or five eyes. Cut under the lower bud, at right angles with the bud [that 

 is, square across] and one-half inch above the upper bud. Tie in bundles of 100 

 or 200 each and bury, covering about six inches with earth. Some recommend 

 burying them upside down, but I have found that it makes but little difference 

 whether right or wrong side up, or lying horizontal. If the wood is sound when 

 put in, the cuttings will come out all right in the spring. 



As soon as the frost is out of the ground in the spring, and it is dry enough to 

 work well, they may be planted in rows three feet apart, and from three to six 

 inches apart in the rows. Make a slanting trench at an angle of forty-five degrees, 

 deep enough to hold the cuttings, so that the upper eye will be half an inch under 

 ground when the earth is leveled. When the cuttings are laid in, always have 

 the top bud on the upper side, so that the shoot can start straight out, fill the 

 trench over half full and tread the ground firmly, then fill in the rest of the soil 

 loosely. Of about 10,000 put in last spring, not five per cent, failed. These are 

 as fine a lot of plants as I ever grew. The cestivalis class is difficult to grow 

 from cuttings, and these are propagated by layers. [See elsewhere.] At times, 

 when ready to set out my grape cuttings, I found the base of them calloused, 

 and the buds swollen, ready to burst. When in this condition, they should not 

 be exposed to the sun or air any length of time. 



