THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 49 



to justify us in growing the many good varieties that require protection and 

 other special treatment. I would recommend three-fourths Concord, Worden, 

 Moore's Diamond, Woodruff Red, Catawba, a few Green Mountain and Dela- 

 ware. Gather and market in eight- and ten-pound baskets; usually sell at home, 

 receiving from one and one half to three cents per pound. They do not pay me, 

 but I would advise extensive planting, on a proper site having a clay subsoil. I 

 have sacked the fruit to a limited extent ; it is the only way to be sure of having 

 a perfect bunch of grapes, as the birds and insects are so bad. We put up un- 

 fermehted grape juice; boil it and bottle while hot; I guess it was good, for it 

 was all drank while I was absent. 



JESSE ROYER, Gove, Gove county: I have 250 grape-vines growing on upland; 

 a southeastern slope is preferable. Set two-year-old vines, eight feet apart. Prune 

 in February, with a knife or shears. I do not trellis my grapes, as the wind is too 

 strong for them. Till with a cultivator, which is the best tool for the work. I 

 mulch my vines. I have tried only Concord, which I find best for this locality. 

 We consume all of our grapes at home. I consider them a paying crop, and 

 would advise extensive planting here. Have not sacked the fruit. 



J. E. SPRINGER, Gove, Gove county : I have fourteen grape-vines growing in 

 black loam. I think the slope makes a great difference, and would prefer a 

 northern or eastern. Set two-year-old vines, six feet apart. Prune in February 

 and March. Cutoff the "foxes" in summer. Have tried Pocklington, Worden, 

 Martha, and Concord ; have discarded Pocklington and Martha, as they are too 

 tender and winter-kill. For this locality I recommend Concord, Worden, and 

 Moore's Early. I do not consider them profitable, and would not advise exten- 

 sive planting. I have sacked the fruit, and find it pays. My experience with 

 grapes in this country is limited. 



JOHN E. SODERSTROM, Gove, Gove county : I have 200 grape-vines, planted 

 on poor, light bottom land. Set two-year-old vines, 8 x 10 feet. Prune in the 

 spring; have also summer pruned, but it is not satisfactory. For a trellis, I use 

 posts and wire; I shall use the canopy style recommended by Munson, of Texas, 

 only that I am not going to build it so high. Till vines with a five- tooth culti- 

 vator. Do not mulch. Have tried Concord, Worden, and Diamond, and I would 

 recommend them for this locality. I* have discarded none. Concord does best 

 here. They are profitable on good soil, and I would advise extensive planting, if 

 you have such soil. Have never sacked the fruit. All upland (here) is good soil 

 for grapes, but the bottom lands along the Smoky river and Plum creek on 

 which I am located is not good, as it gets too compact. There are some very 

 profitable vineyards here and they promise to be a great success in this locality. 



F. D. TURCK, Hill City, Graham county: I have a few grape-vines, planted 

 on bottom land. A northern slope is best, unless on bottom land, which ought 

 to be level. Set two-year-old vines, 8 x 16 J feet. Prune during winter; also, in 

 summer, around the base of vines. My trellis is posts and three wires. Have 

 used barn-yard litter between the rows. Have tried Concord and other varie- 

 ties. I would recommend Concord for this locality, as it seems to be the hardi- 

 est. They bring a good price here, but I have never had any for market. I 

 would not advise extensive planting. Have never sacked the fruit, but am go- 

 ing to this year. The grasshoppers are our worst enemy here, as they cut the 

 stems and the grapes drop off. 



