THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 51 



twelve feet. Till with a five-shovel cultivator ; prune in the spring. I do not 

 summer prune. Never bagged any grapes. Market at home; the price is gen- 

 erally one and a half to two cents per pound. I consider them a pacing crop. 



W. E. BLACKBURN, Anthony, Harper county: I have one-third of an acre of 

 grape-vines, planted on brown, sandy loam. Set one-year-old vines; Delaware 

 four by six feet, and stronger varieties ten by ten feet. Prune to two arms early 

 in February ; I also prune by breaking off buds that are not wanted as soon as in* 

 bloom, and later pinch off the ends of the shoots when the fruit is well set. Have 

 tried Concord, Delaware, Cottage, Worden, Moyer, Herbemont, Norton's Virginia,- 

 Cynthiana, Niagara, Martha, Moore's Diamond, Goethe, Early Ohio, and several 

 others that have not fruited yet. Have discarded Concord and Cottage for poor 

 quality, and Herbemont because our hot weather in August forced ripening and 

 impaired quality. Those best for this locality are Delaware, Moyer, Niagara, 

 Goethe, Martha, Diamond, Norton's Virginia, Worden, and Early Ohio. Think 

 Munson's post-oak hybrids will do well here, and I have a dozen or more varie- 

 ties under experiment. They are a paying crop, and I would advise extensive 

 planting for shipping, if near a railroad. Have sacked the fruit, but it do n't pay. 

 The birds pick through the sacks. The best plan is to train the leaf growth so 

 as to conceal the fruit. 



EDWARD CHATELAINE, Harper, Harper county : I have 200 grape-vines grow- 

 ing in sandy loam. I think an eastern slope preferable, and natural protection 

 an advantage. Plant one-year-old vines started from mother vines [layers?]. 

 Cuttings make poor vines. Set them 4x6 feet. Prune closely any time after the 

 leaves drop, cutting out all old canes, if possible, leaving all of the new growth^ 

 Do not summer prune, as the shade is all wanted to protect the fruit from the 

 hot sun. Till shallow, with a five-tooth cultivator and hoe. Do not mulch. 

 Have tried Concord, Rogers's Hybrid, Delaware, Moore's Early, Champion, 

 Clinton, Isabella, Martha, and Niagara. Have discarded Champion, Martha, 

 and Clinton, because of poor quality ; and Niagara, because of inclination to burn. 

 I would recommend Concord, Rogers's Hybrid, and Delaware, as they are the 

 most satisfactory here. The surplus, after the family gets what it wants, is sold 

 for three cents per pound. They would be a paying crop at this price; at less 

 they would not. I would advise planting for the family and not for commercial 

 purposes. Have never sacked the fruit, as I do n't think it would pay. 



J. C. CURRAN, Curran, Harper county: I have 1000 grape-vines growing on 

 land that is damp subirrigated ; slope makes no difference. Prune after the 

 leaves fall by cutting away all dead wood ; I prune during the summer when I 

 can, as soon as the grapes are set. Till with a five-tooth cultivator; a hoe is the 

 best tool; do not mulch. Have tried Concord, Niagara, Agawam, Champion, 

 Hartford Prolific, Moore's Early, Pocklington, and several others which do* 

 well; have discarded none. Niagara, Catawba, Concord, Missouri Reisling- 

 and Agawam do well here. Sell my grapes for two to three cents per pound. 

 They are profitable, and I would advise extensive planting if your land is suit- 

 able. Have sacked the fruit, but it did not pay; the wind whips the sacks, and 

 the rain spoils them; they get off. All kinds of grapes, excepting the Muscove, 

 do well here. Plant them eight feet apart, and use a trellis four feet wide. Da 

 not mulch, as in this climate the roots come up between the mulching and the 

 lower ones disappear, and the vineyard is ruined; a new one can be grown before 

 this will recover. Cultivate after each rain; keep it raked up loose, so as to form 

 a dust mulch. You can raise grapes by the ton in this county. The enemies of 

 grapes are poultry and birds. We provide homes for the birds but do not pro- 



