52 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



vide food for them; the mulberries and cherries are all gone when the dry 

 weather comes on, and the birds must eat the grapes or starve. To kill them is 

 cruel and only destroys our best friends. There is a remedy for this difficulty 

 that is cheap and sure; it is, plant wild cherries, elderberries, black haws and 

 wild grapes some distance from your vineyard, which will furnish food for them, 

 and they will not trouble your grapes. 



V. B. JONES, Syracuse, Hamilton county : I have about a dozen grape vines, 

 Bet on dark loam. I planted one- and two-year-old vines, six feet apart. Culti- 

 tivate with a plow and Acme harrow, the same as corn. Do not mulch. The 

 grasshoppers prune my vines for me. Have tried Concord and Worden. They 

 are not profitable, and I would not advise extensive planting here. Have never 

 sacked the fruit. I set out about an acre several years ago and irrigated them 

 once or twice, and they grew pretty well till the latter part "of the summer, when 

 the grasshoppers stripped them of their foliage. The following year we failed to 

 get water to irrigate with, and the grasshoppers about finished them. I have 

 about a dozen of them left which I have just transplanted to a place where I can 

 irrigate them, 



A. J. SALTZMAN, Burrton, Harvey county : Have 600 grape-vines, on a south- 

 ern slope; mostly Concord, with a few Moore's Early, Champion, Agawam, El- 

 vira, and Lindley. I would recommend for all purposes Concord, as it is hard 

 to beat. Champion is good for early. Agawam and Lindley are among the best 

 for table use. I plant first class one-year-old vines, in rows eight feet apart, the 

 vines six feet in the rows. Cultivate with five-tootb cultivator. In February I 

 prune back to two or three buds; also prune some in summer, as it throws the 

 strength to the fruit. My trellis is posts and wire. Have never bagged grapes, 

 but think it might do in a small way, but otherwise is too expensive. I cut the 

 stems with a knife and pack into baskets at once, using ten- and twenty-pound 

 baskets. Market north and west of here, receiving from $80 to $150 per acre 

 for them. I consider them a paying crop. 



DAVID LEHMAN, Halstead, Harvey county: Have 160 Concord grape-vines 

 growing on sandy loam with an eastern elope. Planted one-year-old vines, 4x6 

 feet. Till deeply in spring with a cultivator, and more shallow later. Prune, 

 leaving three or four one-year-old arms and one or two stubs ; also summer prune, 

 to check the growth of the vine and increase the growth of the fruit. I think 

 posts and wires make the best trellis. 



WILLIAM J. CLARK, Halstead, Harvey county : I have seventy-five grape-vines, 

 planted on sandy loam which slopes to the southwest, but I do not think this 

 desirable, as they get too much sun. Set two-year-old vines, eight feet apart. 

 Prune in February by cutting out old wood, also all new, excepting about four 

 new vines. Do not summer prune. I use a cultivator and harrow early ; then 

 cover with a heavy mulch of coarse stable litter or stalks. Concord is the only 

 variety I have tried. Have never marketed any ; they are a sure crop here, but 

 the prices are low ; I would advise planting extensively if we could get better 

 prices. I have sacked my grapes, but the birds pick holes in the sacks. It does 

 not pay. 



HENRY CHATELES, Newton, Harvey county: I have fifteen grape-vines grow- 

 ing on black loam having a fifteen-inch, yellow-clay subsoil. I think slope makes 

 a difference; would prefer a southeastern. Set two-year-old vines, 8x8 feet; 

 prune during winter to two or three buds. For a trellis I use Osage orange 

 stakes. Cultivate shallow three inches; a hoe is best for small patches; I 



