THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 53 



mulch my vines. Have tried Concord, Martha, Empire State, Niagara, Worden, 

 and Moore's Early; have discarded all but Concord, as they either die or wither; 

 I would recommend the Concord for this locality. The birds gather most of the 

 fruit. They would pay if one had ten or more acres, but would not advise exten- 

 sive planting, as they are too cheap two and one-half cents per pound. Have 

 never sacked the fruit. The moles are quite destructive here; they get at the 

 roots during winter and kill them. 



P. NABB ( reported by C. A. Seaman), Sedgwick, Harvey county: Mr. Nabb 

 has one acre of grape-vines growing on a clay side-hill. He prefers a south- 

 western slope, as he thinks it improves the quality; sets two-year-old vines, 8x10 

 feet ; prunes to two eyes in February ; uses posts and wires for a trellis ; tills his 

 vines with a five-shovel cultivator; does not mulch. He has Concord, Salem, 

 Delaware, Moore's Early, Niagara, and Clinton, and is best satisfied with Con- 

 cord and recommends it for that locality. Cuts his grapes from the vines, and 

 places them directly into the baskets in which they are marketed; sells at home, 

 for two cents per pound. He considers them profitable, but would not advise 

 extensive planting in his locality. He has never used sacks, but says the birds 

 are so very bad that he must do something to protect the fruit. 



C. BASTIAN, Wittrup, Hodgeman county : I have forty-two grape-vines, set 

 on one foot of black loam having a yellow subsoil which slopes to the northeast. 

 My varieties are thirty Concord and twelve Moore's Early. I prefer one-year-old 

 vines, set eight feet apart. Cultivate my vines one year, then mulch; summer 

 prune., letting only two canes grow ; pinch suckers once a week. Have never 

 bagged my grapes. I think they are a paying crop in western Kansas. 



JOHN VETTER, Santa F, Haskell county: I have 400 grape-vines, planted on 

 upland, which would be better if a little sandy. Set one-year-old vines, five feet 

 apart. Prune ten buds to the rib. For a trellis I use posts and wires, to which 

 I tie the vines. Till them with a plow, but a cultivator is the best implement 

 for the work. Do not mulch. Have tried only Concord, which I would recom- 

 mend, as it does well in this locality. Market in local market, receiving three 

 cents per pound. I consider them a paying crop. Have never sacked the fruitr 



P. W. DIXON, Holton, Jackson county: I have 1000 grape-vines, on a south- 

 ern slope. They are Moore's Early, Concord, Worden, and Elvira. Would 

 recommend this list. Have experimentally tried Niagara, Pocklington, Wyo- 

 ming Red, and Hartford. Hartford and Pocklington are good. I plant one- 

 year-old vines, 8x10 feet. Till with an Acme cultivator harrow. Prune in early 

 March, cutting new growth back to two or three buds, on the arm-and-spur sys- 

 tem; never summer prune, because it costs money and is of no particular benefit, 

 I think posts and three wires make the best trellis. Sometimes I bag some, but 

 it will not pay. Pick in eight-pound baskets, ready for market. Market at 

 home mostly, realizing fifty dollars net per acre. They are a paying crop. Have 

 put up unfermented grape juice. We press the juice out, bring to a boil, skim r 

 sweeten to taste, and seal in bottles. 



F. L. OSBORN, Soldier, Jackson county : I have 700 grape-vines growing on 

 an eastern slope with black loam soil. My varieties are Concord, Moore's Early, 

 and Worden ; I recommend Concord and Moore's Early. I have several varieties 

 that I do not know the name of, but all of them are doing well. I prefer two- 

 year-old vines, set eight by ten feet. I cultivate shallow but thorough ; weeds 

 should not be allowed to grow up through vines; they cause rot. I prune in 

 February or March ; trim the new wood to two buds ; my trellis is of wire, which- 



