THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 59 



Ing the winter when not frozen; cut back one-half of last year's growth; during 

 summer I prune all the new growth from the ground. Use a wire trellis. Till 

 with a cultivator and hoe. I think a cultivator and stirring plow are the best 

 tools for this work; they should be cultivated often; shallow cultivation is best. 

 I do not mulch, but think it would be a good thing here, and I certainly would if 

 I had the mulching. Have tried Concord, Clinton, Delaware, and Moore's Early ; 

 have discarded the Clinton and Moore's Early ; the Clinton is no good, and 

 Moore's Early winter-kills; would recommend Concord, as it does best here. 

 Gather my grapes in baskets and sell at home and in near-by towns, receiving 

 two and one-half cents cents per pound. They are a paying crop, and would ad- 

 vise extensive planting, if cultivated well. Have never sacked the fruit. 



E. GAISER, Lansing, Leavenworth county : I have 600 grape-vines growing on 

 rich soil, having a southeastern asject. I spray them four times a year. My 

 varieties are Concord, Elvira, Moore's Diamond, and Niagara ; have tried and dis- 

 carded Elvira, because it tasted green ; I would recommend Concord, Cynthiana, 

 and Delaware. I prefer two-year-old vines, set 8x8 feet. Cultivate with a dia- 

 mond plow. Prune with grape shears in February ; my trellis is wire ; I never 

 summer prune; I don't have time. Have never bagged any and do not advise 

 it, as I think it too much work for the benefit derived. Gather the grapes in 

 baskets and use them all at home ; we get 5000 pounds per acre. I do not con- 

 sider them a paying crop. 



DR. J. STAYMAN, Leavenworth, Leavenworth county : We have been growing 

 grapes successfully in Kansas for the last forty years, having had a previous 

 knowledge of the business, as my father planted five acres of vineyard about 

 eighty years ago, when grape culture was in its infancy. Any kind of soil that 

 will grow wheat or corn will grow grapes. A dry, calcareous soil is best. It is 

 not so much in the soil as in the location. There is a difference of twenty-five 

 per cent, in the saccharine matter of the grape on the same kind of soil, not two 

 two miles apart, due to the location. This makes a difference of twenty five per 

 cent, in the quality of the grapes, as the quality depends upon the amount of 

 sugar the grape contains. This difference is one-half pound of sugar to every 

 fifteen pounds of grapes. A gentle eastern or southeastern slope is the most de- 

 sirable; but it is not so much in the slope as elevation and latitude of the par- 

 ticular vineyard. High hills and bluffs above valleys and ravines are much the 

 best. The value of hills is in proportion to their height and proximity to bluffs. 

 We have tried every native grape of apparent value yet introduced, besides 

 numerous hybrids, crosses, and wild varieties. Over 200 and more were dis- 

 carded as being worthless in quality, tender, or not productive. 



Following are the best: Alaska, Barry, Beacon, Brighton, Catawba, Cris- 

 holm's No. 9, Concord, Cynthiana, Delaware, Darwin, Dearoba, Diamond, Dra- 

 cut Amber, Eclipse, Early Victor, Elvira, Farrell, Goethe, Pock lington, Green 

 Mountain, Herman, Ideal, Ives, Jewel, Magnate, Marsala, Mary Mark, Moore's 

 Early, Massasoit, Niagara, Norfolk, Norton's Virginia, Osage, Omego, Ozark, 

 Paragon, Pawnee, Primate, Standard, Supreme, White Beauty, White Imperial, 

 Woodruff, Worden. I would recommend the Alaska, the finest very late grape 

 known, hardy, healthy, and very productive; large bunch and berry. Eclipse 

 the largest white and best in quality, but not very compact in bunch. Concord 

 one of the most reliable. Diamond large bunch and berry, but sometimes 

 rots badly ; not as hardy as some others. Delaware the standard of excellence. 

 Darwin seedling of Delaware, equal in quality but larger in bunch and berry, 

 and a stronger grower. Cynthiana the best black wine grape known. Mag- 



