68 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



SAMUEL L. DETWILER, Glen Elder, Mitchell county : Have one dozen grape- 

 vines, planted on sandy loam. Set two-year-old vines, 6x8 feet. Prune, in No- 

 vember, by cutting back to two buds; also pinch the green shoots back during 

 summer. I have- a wire trellis. I keep the weeds down with a cultivator and 

 hoe. Mulching is detrimental. Concord does best with us.. Have never had 

 enough to market. Would not advise planting largely. Have never sacked the 

 fruit. 



NOAH E. BOUTON, Cherryvale, Montgomery county : I have 100 grape-vines, 

 planted some on mulatto and some on light soil. I prefer an eastern slope, as I 

 think slope makes considerable difference. Set two-year-old vines, eight feet 

 apart. Prune close, in February. My trellis is posts and wires. Till them with a 

 double- shovel plow or cultivator ; I think the double-shovel plow best. I mulch my 

 vines ; the more the better, so you do n't get too close. Have tried Concord and 

 Isabella; have discarded the latter on account of shy bearing ; would recommend 

 the Concord, as it does best with us. Pick my grapes, and market in Cherryvale 

 and with neighbors, receiving from three to five cents per pound. I consider 

 them a paying crop, and would advise planting extensively. Have never sacked 

 the fruit. I think the Concord grape could be raised with profit, because they 

 bear nearly every year in this locality; rot is the only drawback; but I think 

 that is caused largely by neglect in pruning allowing too much shade for the 

 fruit. 



P. C. BOWEN, Cherryvale, Montgomery county: I have one-half acre of grapes 

 in bearing, planted on dark, sandy loam. I prefer a northern slope. Set two- 

 year-old vines, generally 8x10 feet, but the variety has much to do with the 

 distance apart. Prune in the fall ; cut back to one or two buds on each cane. 

 Also prune during summer, to give plenty of sun and light. Use a wire trellis 

 nailed to posts. Cultivate four to six inches deep, with a Planet Jr. horse hoe 

 and a hand hoe, which I consider the best tools for this work. Do not mulch 

 my vines, excepting with soil. Have tried Concord, Moore's Early, Dracut Am- 

 ber, Delaware, Agawam, Telegraph, Norton's Virginia, and several others; have 

 discarded all but the three first named. They were not hardy, were unprolific, 

 and unprofitable for either home or market. The varieties that do best here are 

 Concord, Dracut Amber, and Moore's Early; I would recommend these three, in 

 the order named. Gather the fruit in eight-pound baskets, and market in 

 Cherryvale and other Western towns; they pay better than apples or peaches. 

 But I would not advise extensive planting. Have never sacked the fruit; I 

 pray early with Bordeaux mixture, to prevent rot, and find it pays. We put up 

 a little unfermented grape juice ; boil down one- third, and bottle ; keep in a cool 

 place. 



JACOB GOOD, Coffejville, Montgomery county: I have three acres of grape- 

 vines, planted on limestone land. Set one-year-old vines, six to eight feet apart. 

 Prune, early in February, to two buds. I find a trellis the best means of keep- 

 ing the vines up. Till them with a five-toothed plow and harrow. Do not mulch. 

 Have tried Concord, Moore's Early, Niagara, Pocklington, Martha, Elvira, Ives, 

 Moore's Diamond, and Clinton. Have discarded Clinton, Martha, Elvira, and 

 Ives, as they seem unadapted to this climate, and are unprofitable. Those that 

 do best here, and which I would recommend, are Moore's Early, Concord, Pock- 

 lington, Niagara, and Moore's Diamond. Gather in baskets and sell in local 

 market, receiving four cents per pound for Moore's Early, and two cents per 

 pound for Concord and Niagara. They pay fairly well, but I would not advise 



