74 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



6x10 and 8x10 feet. Cultivate with a plow, a cultivator, and a scythe. Prune 

 in March and April. My trellis is of wires and posts. I mow the ends of the 

 vines during summer ; they make too much vine, to the detriment of the fruit. 

 Sack my grapes, but do not advise it, as the wind and rain use the sacks up. 

 Market at home. 



F. T. M. BUTCHER, Phillipsburg, Phillips county: My grape-vines are 

 planted on sandy loam. Varieties tested are Pocklington, Moore's Early, and 

 Concord; have discarded all of them but Concord. I plant yearling vines, eight 

 feet apart, and cultivate as for other crops. Prune in February ; pinch during 

 summer. I think galvanized wire makes the best trellis. Market my crop at 

 home. I do not consider them a paying crop. 



D. F. YOUNG, Long Island, Phillips county: I did have twenty- four grape- 

 vines, but they were all winter-killed the past winter ; they were planted on 

 deep, black upland soil. I believe a northern slope, having a clay soil, is best. 

 Set them five feet apart. I usually prune the vines in the fall and lay them 

 down ; do not prune during summer. My trellis was posts with wires stretched 

 on them. Cultivated them with a horse and hoe. Have tried Concord; they 

 pay, but would not advise planting extensively. I believe grapes would do well 

 here with proper treatment. The past few years I have been experimenting with 

 them. I used to think it necessary to bury them in the fall, in order that they 

 might not winter-kill. The winter of 1899 and 1900 I laid them down and covered 

 some of them with common corn-crib fencing; on this I put small rails and 

 brush. One healthy vine not covered came out in the spring of 1900 in fine con- 

 dition the same as those that were covered. Last winter I was very busy, 

 and so left my grapes unprotected, like the vine mentioned above; consequently 

 they are all dead. I believe there was not enough moisture in the ground last 

 winter. I have always noticed that when they go into winter with the soil well 

 soaked they come out all right in the spring. The hot sun and hot winds 

 are very injurious to grapes; they get sunburned. I believe they should be 

 planted in rows north and south and very close together, so that one vine would 

 help protect another from sun and wind. 



ISAAC H. FURMAN, Onaga, Pottawatomie county: I have about 200 grape- 

 vines, planted on a red-clay loam. I prefer a western slope, as it is not so liable 

 to frost. Set one- and two-year-old vines, six by eight feet. Prune in the fall to 

 make a compact head, also pinch back once during summer to cause thicker 

 growth. I use a four-wire trellis. Till with a five-tooth cultivator. Never 

 mulch. Have tried Concord, Worden, Elvira, Salem, Brighton, Delaware, 

 Moore's Diamond, Agawam, and Early Ohio. Have discarded Martha, Niagara, 

 Beauty, Empire State, Columbian, and Colrain. Concord does best here; the 

 others are fairly successful. Market in baskets, in Onaga, receiving five cents 

 per pound. They are a profitable crop, but I would not advise extensive plant- 

 ing. Have never sacked the fruit. 



M. D. WELTNER, Westmoreland, Pottawatomie county: I have fifty grape- 

 vines growing on sloping land; a northeast or east slope is preferable. Plant 

 one-year-old vines, eight to nine feet apart. Prune in February and March, by 

 cutting back to two buds on each lateral. I also prune during the summer by 

 breaking off the superfluous sprouts. Have tried only Concord, which is the 

 best variety for this locality. They are a profitable fruit, and I would advise ex- 

 tensive planting. Have never sacked the fruit. 



J. J. ABLARD, Lawndale, Pratt county: I have about 120 grape-vines grow- 

 ing on level, black loam. They are Concord, Dracut Amber, Lindley, Moyer, and 



