84 THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 



prune before the sap starts in the spring ; do not prune the green twigs. I do 

 not consider them profitable. In putting up unfermented grape juice, we set the 

 cans in cool water and let come to a boil ; then seal, while hot. 



D. H. WELCH, Macksville, Stafford county : I have 700 grape-vines growing 

 on dark, sandy soil. Plant No. 1 one-year-old vines, 6x10 feet; prune to two 

 canes in February ; also prune some during summer. My trellis is made of wire. 

 Care for them with a five-tooth cultivator, which I think is best. Do not mulch 

 them. Have tried Pocklington, Concord, and Worden ; have discarded none, 

 but find the Concord has done best so far, and would recommend it for this local- 

 ity. Gather in pails and boxes ; dispose of them in our home market. I consider 

 them a paying crop. Have never bagged the fruit. The main thing here is to 

 cultivate almost constantly, after each rain, and between rains to keep the 

 weeds down, or the 'hoppers will cut them off. Have put up unfermented juice; 

 I can it just the same as fruit. 



W. M. CAMPBELL, St. John, Stafford county: I have only a few grape-vines, 

 planted on creek bottom. Set two-year-old vines, six by eight feet. Prune in 

 winter. Use a three-wire trellis; but stakes are better, as they allow regular 

 ripening. Cultivate with anything to keep the soil loose on top. Do not mulch. 

 Concord and Moore's Early do best here. Have never sacked the fruit. The 

 above-named varieties do well here with almost any kind of culture. We could 

 raise grapes by the million crates, if we only had a market for them. 



H. E. PELTON, St. John, Stafford county: I have sixty grape-vines growing 

 on level, sandy soil. Set two-year-old vines, twelve feet apart, in rows fifteen 

 feet apart. Prune in February ; also a little in summer. For a trellis I use posts 

 and wires running lengthwise of the rows. Cultivate with a disk harrow; I 

 think that tool best. Do not mulch. Have tried Concord, Moore's Early, 

 Niagara, Worden, Agawam, and Isabella. Have discarded none. I would rec- 

 ommend Concord and Moore's Early, as they are the most successful here. 

 Gather the fruit in baskets ; sell in local markets, receiving four cents per pound 

 for the early grapes, and three cents per pound for the late ones. I do not con- 

 sider them a good, paying crop, and would not advise extensive planting. Have 

 never sacked the fruit. My first planting was all Concords, which killed back to 

 the ground every winter for five or six years; they finally made a good growth, 

 and have done fairly well since, and the last two years have borne reasonably 

 well. Three years ago I planted Concord and Moore's Early ; both varieties bore 

 some fruit the second season, and were well loaded last season. The other varie- 

 ties are not yet in bearing. 



E. T. WRIGHT, Seward, Stafford county: I have a quarter of an acre of Con- 

 cord grapes, planted on a dark, sandy loam sloping to the east ; the vines are set 

 six feet apart in the row, and the rows eight feet apart. Cultivate with a five- 

 toothed harrow ; prune in February ; cut back to two buds ; my trellis is of posts 

 and two wires. I do not summer prune, as I like lots of leaves and vines ; the 

 birds do not eat the fruit eo badly. Have never bagged grapes, but would advise 

 it, as the bags would protect them from the birds. Gather them in baskets. 



C. E. VAN METER, Johnson, Stanton county: My vines were set out this 

 spring, (1901) on sandy loam. I prefer a northern slope. Set yearling vines from 

 cuttings, about eight feet apart. Pruning should be done closely during winter. 

 For a trellis, I use single stakes five feet high. Till with a cultivator and hoe. 

 A five-tooth cultivator is the best tool. I think mulching advisable. Have tried 

 only Concord, but almost any variety will do well here after it is once started, 



