THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 97 



Brace the end posts, and put two wires on them ; one three feet from the ground, 

 and the other five and a half or six feet. We use No. 11 wire. 



Third year : Now trim your vine, if it has grown enough so that you can do 

 it, leaving one arm on each side of the head of the vine. Cut these arms back 

 six buds to each and tie to the wires. Train the shoots along the wires, and tie. 

 Let but few not over ten clusters of fruit remain on the vine. 



Fourth year : Select the best cane nearest the head of the vine for your bear, 

 ing cane. Cut off all wood beyond it. Trim these bearing canes and cut off the 

 ends, leaving ten buds. 



Fifth year : Select the best cane near the head of the vine for your bearing 

 cane the coming season, and leave twelve buds on each bearing cane. Cut off 

 all wood beyond these bearing canes. Tie these long, bearing canes to the upper 

 wire. If there is not sufficient room for future growth, carry alternate canes 

 down to the lower wires and tie in umbrella form. 



After the fruit is set these vines should receive their summer pruning, which 

 consists of removing the tendrils or clingers, and cutting off the -ends of the 

 bearing canes at third or fourth leaf beyond the fruit, excepting only the cane 

 nearest the head of the vine, which is not shortened, but left to grow for the 

 bearing cane for the following year. Strawberry Culturist. 



CARE OF GRAPE-VINES. 



The grape-vine should not be planted more than six or eight inches deep, as 

 the feeding roots are found very near the surface. If the vine is long, plant in a 

 slanting position. When the vine is first set, cut back to three buds. The ob- 

 ject of leaving three buds is to be sure of one to grow ; if they all start, rub off 

 all but one, and, as that grows during the summer, tie to a small stake. By giv- 

 ing the one shoot the whole growth that the three would make, at the end of the 

 season a nice cane will be produced, and the process is as simple as growing a 

 hill of corn ; cut this cane back to three or four buds. The following season train 

 up two shoots in the same manner. Subsequent pruning will depend on how the 

 vine is to be trained ; also on its habits of growth. But avoid allowing too much 

 wood to grow; this is always at the expense of fruit, whether of tree or vine. 

 Don't bury them alive they can't grow out and will surely die. Pick up those 

 old bones, boots and shoes all the chickens that die and plant near the grapes ; 

 and the prunings of the vines are good. Don't burn any old boots they are 

 worth fifty cents each to grape-vines. Oeo. J. Spear, Greeley, Colo. 



MAKING A VINEYARD. 



T. V. Munson, the great authority on grape culture, of Denison, Tex., has 

 written for the Texas Farm and Ranch a paper on "How to Start a Vine- 

 yard, which explains, among other things, Mr. Munson's system of trellising, 

 which differs from that used by most growers. Mr. Munson claims his plan is 

 better than any in common use. His paper follows, omitting reference to varie- 

 ties, some of which recommended do not grow well in this latitude. 



The site and soil have much to do with making a vineyard profitable or un- 

 profitable ; hence too great care cannot be used in selecting a location. 



The ideal site has an eastern or southeastern exposure, with sufficient slope to 

 secure surf ace- drainage, but not enough to wash badly in the heavy rains. 

 7 



