THE GRAPE IN KANSAS. 105 



for the amateur: For white Green Mountain, Moore's Diamond, and Pockling- 

 ton; red Brighton, Catawba, Woodruff Red, Goethe; black Early Victor, 

 Worden, Defiance, and Norton. 



If people only knew it, and would carry out their knowledge in a practical 

 way, every man owning a house could have grapes enough to eat and not occupy 

 land availiable for ordinary plants. Plant against the walls of the house and 

 train up under the eaves, and there will be neither rot nor mildew to injure them. 



The danger from swallowing grape seed is greatly exaggerated, in my opinion; 

 but at the same time a grape fit to eat should have the seeds rejected. It is true 

 that some varieties are sweet between the skin and pulp; the latter is often 

 swallowed whole, for if bursted it will be somewhat acid inside ; but that is not 

 my way of eating grapes. 



I pity the man who has the land and no grapes ; yet at the same time I will 

 say that he is neglecting a duty that he owes to himself, his family, and the pub- 

 lic in general. 



In concluding this paper, I must not forget to give an account of the latest 

 great acquisition. It is an ever-bearing grape ; one that has on the vine, at the 

 same time, ripe fruit, green fruit, grapes no larger than bird-shot, and blossoms. 

 There is ripe fruit from July until frost, which they did not get at Belton, Tex., 

 this season until November. The bunches are large, sometimes weighing three 

 pounds; berry large and the quality No. 1. I have had two opportunities to taste 

 this grape and see it in the different stages of development ; therefore write from 

 experience, l^have a vine of it that has made twenty feet of wood this season. 

 This may indicate what this vine will do here next season. It is of the vinifera 

 class, and will have to be protected in winter. J. R. Allen, of Texas, is the 

 originator of this new grape. To save trouble, I will state that I have no vines 

 or wood of it for sale. 



GRAPE CULTURE. 



Mr. W. Mead, of western Virginia, is a practical, all-round fruit-grower, and 

 has the following advice to give in regard to grape culture for Green's Fruit 

 Grower : 



I apply manure to the soil for three years after planting, and yet on some 

 soils this might not be necessary. My object is to give health and vigorous 

 growth to the vines and to get the trellis covered as soon as possible. After this 

 my attention is given to the canes and body of the vine. In future years, after 

 the vineyard has borne several crops, I manure it every other year. After three 

 years' growth I prune back to two buds. When the vine is seven or eight years 

 old I cut back to one bud. My practice is to have as little of the old bark left 

 on the main cane as possible, as it makes a place for insects to hide. If you 

 want fine, large clusters, prune your vines back closely and do not let the canes 

 run over seven or eight feet. Thin out the arms during the summer. Do not 

 allow the clusters to form too thickly. Clip out where the clusters are too close, 

 when the grapes are about the size of shot. Do not remove the leaves from the 

 vine, as some people recommend. 



Grape-vines are desirable and attractive for covering sides of buildings, barns, 

 or walls, and you need not be afraid that the vines will do the building or walls 

 any harm. They will protect them. Plant grape-vines for the health of your 

 family, and for their enjoyment. 



The longer you permit your canes of the grape-vine to run the smaller the 

 fruit will grow. 



The greatest percentage of sugar is formed closer to the roots of the grapes, 

 and not at the extremities. 



