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THE BEE-KEEPERS' REVIEW. 



No bee-keeper should close the season 

 with foul brood. The fall is the time to 

 use fire. 



I have one apiary of about loo colonies, 

 that has been moved to a healthy location, 

 that I shall shake or drive entirely. The 

 colonies have been badly exposed, and 

 are in boxes and old lo-frame hives. 

 The disease is just beginning to develop, 

 and I shall shake each colony into a new, 

 8-frame hive, with Hoffman frames, with 

 one-inch starters. 



WHEN AND HOW TO SHAKE OFF 

 THE BEES. 



I shall proceed as follows: As soon as 

 the honey flow is well on, so all the bees, 

 both young and old, are handling noth- 

 ing but new honey, I will commence, 

 say, with the hives containing frames, by 

 moving the old hive back and setting my 

 new hive on the old stand, then carefully 

 look over the combs from the old colony 

 until I find the queen, when I will 

 shake the bees from another comb, 

 and pick ofif the queen and let her crawl 

 in with them. If the brood is hatching 

 freely, I will shake as many as four-fifths 

 of the bees into the new hive. If the 

 old colony has, say, five frames of brood, 

 I put a little extra burlap over them and 

 carry them to a new stand where I let 

 them set for 20 days. If there are not 

 five frames of brood, I will double the 

 brood and bees from two hives, so it will 

 make a satisfactory colony when the 

 brood is hatched, 20 days hence. 



HOW TO DRIVE THE BEES OUT OF 

 A I,OT OF BOX HIVES. 



In this way I will go over all the frame- 

 hives. When I come to the box-hives 

 (which are usually made here the size of 

 either an 8- or lo-frame hive with slatted 

 top so as to take a super) wife will go 

 along and take off the covers, and I will 

 set on my new hives until we get about a 

 dozen, then, with our smoker and a light 

 hammer, we can drive the whole lot as 

 quickly as we could drive 07ie. 



The quantitx' and conduct of the bees 

 in the new hive will show the experienced 

 bee keeper when he has the queen. If 

 you drum a little too long, you may have 

 to put some of the bees back into the old 

 hive or box. Be sure and leave enough 

 bees to care for the brood but 710 more. 

 Remember, all your field bees are in the 

 new hive, and they need some comb 

 builders, for the honey flow is on, and 

 they are going to give a good account of 

 themselves. 



The boxes are set away the same as the 

 hives, and in 20 or 21 days I will go over 

 the same thing. 



In the meantime, I will supply the old 

 hives with queen cells from an apiary 

 where natural swarming is allowed, as 

 queens reared by all young bees, and un- 

 der such forced conditions, are inferior. 



At the second driving, the brood is all 

 hatched, and the colony has become 

 strong enough so it has filled its comb 

 with new honey. Some hives that only 

 had a few cells of foul brood, will have it 

 covered up so you cannot detect it. 



WHAT TO DO WITH THE HONEY. 



As to what to do with this honey, it 

 will require the writing of another article; 

 so I will simply say, for the present, at 

 the second driving, every hive is securely 

 nailed up, and the hives hauled home for 

 safe keeping. All badly affected hives 

 are burned, hone3- and all, and the bal- 

 ance goes to some cracker factor}-, where 

 I know bee keepers won't g.et it. 



I have two apiaries that were thus 

 treated two years ago, and are clean at 

 this time, but I induced the neighbors to 

 clean up also; as "eternal vigilance" is 

 the price of a clean apiary in an infected 

 district. I shall expect this apiary, of 

 100 colonies, to be increased to 175 this 

 fall, give 200 pounds of beeswax, from 

 from 30 to 40 pounds of extracted honey 

 and from 50 to 60 pounds of comb honey, 

 per colony, spring count, besides being 

 on new combs in uniform hives and in a 

 healthy condition. 



LONGMONT, Colo. May 30, 1902. 



