58 



CA JVA DIA N HORTIC UL TURIST. 



They bear dry heat and occasional 

 neglect as well as any, and are not 

 liable to the attacks of insects, while 

 the number and variety of species are 

 large. Next to begonias I would place 

 geraniums. Every one knows how end- 

 less is the variety of shades and forms 

 of these beautiful flowers. Then the 

 scented, the silver-leafed, the bronze, 

 the ivy-leafed, the tri-colored — a charm- 

 ing array. One can have a gay window 

 without any flowers at all. The list of 

 desirable plants is almost endless. — 

 Horticultural Times. 



Fuchsia Culture. 



I FIND that with plants which have 

 bloomed continuously all summer there 

 is little hope of their flowering in the 

 winter, unless they are of the Speciosa 

 and Serratifolia varieties. These will 

 ofteii flower eight months in the year, 

 and are called Winter Flowering in the 

 catalogues. Other species can be 

 packed away in boxes, with a light 

 .soil, and kept in a cool, dark cellar, 

 where potatoes will not sprout. They 

 must remain dormant and should have 

 neither light nor warmth to send forth 

 their tiny leaves. All their leaves will 

 drop, and they must not have any 

 water unless the soil becomes too 

 parched, and if the cellar is damp this 

 will not occur. In February or 

 March, if you desire the plants to 

 bloom early, they can be taken up and 

 potted in rich soil, composed of one- 

 third well-decomposed cow manure, and 

 two-thirds rich garden soil. This can 

 be prepared and put into a box when 

 the plants are placed in the cellar. I 

 always have a large box of compost 

 ready for the potting of flowers in the 

 spring, and also to plant annuals and 

 raise cuttings when the garden soil is 

 frozen stifl' or well covered with snow. 

 So prepare a large box of it and a small- 

 er one of sand, and you can start 

 early vegetables as well as flowers in 

 March. — Pop. Gard. 



The Mud or Saucer System 



of propagation is practised by taking 

 any convenient flat vessel holding 

 sand, to a depth of an inch or more, 

 into which cuttings are inserted. Keep 

 watered with a tine rose, or the sand 

 will wash out of place. Do not shade, 

 but keep in the sunshine. It is essen- 

 tial that the sand be kept saturated 

 with water, as drying is fatal. Tem- 

 perature from 6.5" to 100° fahr. Most 

 of the soft stemmed plants may be 

 propagated by this means. — Am. 

 Garden. 



How I Grow My Chrysanthemums. 



(A paper by George Trufsell before the Montreal 

 Horticultural Society. ] 



This paper was written in conformity 

 with the conditions upon which the 

 tirst prize was awarded on Chrysan- 

 themums, the plants having been 

 brought into bloom without the aid" of 

 a greenhouse. It may, therefore, be 

 accepted as evidence of what can be 

 accomplished with limited facilities. 



I do not pretend to give anything 

 new. The cuttings were put in early — 

 some in February, some in March, 

 and potted in foui'-inch pots ; as 

 soon as they required shifting they got 

 six-inch pots, and four weeks after 

 they got ten-inch pots. The soil was 

 of well rotted manure and sods. 

 Sufficient drainage was given, this 

 being an important point. 



If large pla^.ts are required they 

 must, from April 1st to July 1st, be 

 pinched about twice a week to keep 

 them bushy. The Japanese varieties 

 are inclined to grow upright, and with 

 these the system of management mat- 

 ters little. 



About June 1st the pots were put 

 outside in rows sufliciently distant from 

 one another to allow a man to pass 

 between, taking care not to let the 

 plants root through the pots ; to pre- 

 vent which they were moved once or 

 twice a week. I recommend training, 

 giving each branch the support of a 



