92 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTDRIST 



with tough paper saturated witli linseed 

 oil, and then wrapped with old cloths, 

 and so left until the 20th of August, 

 when a new bark will be formed over 

 the wound. 



This bai'k is formed by the exudation 

 of cellular material from the sap-wood, 

 the same way that a callous is formed 

 over a cut I'oot or scion when packed in 

 damp sand or saw-dust. 



We have often tried banking a 

 gnawed tree with earth, where the 

 wound was still quite fresh and not too 

 large. The degree of success was suf- 

 ficient to lead us to 

 endorse the plan 

 described above as 

 worth trying. 



The plan, so of- 

 ten commended, of 

 trying to bridge 

 over the wounded 

 idwPWK' V immsxnBKxxn surface with scions 

 '^^^^^Wl^^^a^m ^^ yo^^i^o wood, as 

 shown in the ac- 

 companying illustration, is good, but is 

 almost sure to fail with inexperienced 

 hands. And failure means the loss of 

 a year's time before the tree is replaced. 



Hotbeds need air, water, sunshine, and 

 a constant vigilance ; for cold frames 

 the same rules are equally necessary. I 

 do not think a single advantage can be 

 claimed for hotbed sash of any other 

 size than 3x6 feet. These need to be 

 made of the best pine, 2 inches thick, 

 with horns at each end to move them 

 by. They should be set with 6x8 

 double thick glass, bedded, tacked and 

 puttied and well painted with white 

 lead. Such sash, with good care, and 

 well housed in the time when not in use, 

 will last a life-time. — Farm and Home. 



THE SUBSOIL PLOW AS A DRAINING 

 MACHINE. 



BY J. TWEDliLE, STOXRY CREEK. 



The time has come in our experience 

 in fruit growing, when we ax'e convinced 



that it is useless to plant out orchards, 

 vineyai'ds, and small fruits in cold or 

 wet lands, without first draining and 

 subsoil ploughing. Underdraining is 

 made doubly effective by subsoiling 

 crosswise of the drains, thus opening 

 uj) the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 in., 

 and thereby leading the sur2:)lus water 

 quickly to the drains, and thence to 

 their outlet. 



For the purpose of underdraining, I 

 have found no implement so useful in 

 all kinds of land, as the subsoil plough. 

 The hardest clay can be cut with com- 

 parative ease ; and stones are scarcely 

 an objection to its use. If the stones 

 are small, they are generally moved the 

 first time they ai*e struck ; if large, it 

 is best to pass over them until the plow- 

 })oint can be got under them, when they 

 are easily removed. In case of a very 

 large stone, it is best to cut around one 

 side, as the plough is easily swung to 

 one side for such a purpose. Any depth 

 can be cut, down to 4 feet, with no 

 greater width than is necessary in dig- 

 ging with the ordinary draining spade 

 and hoe; also, any greater or less length 

 of drain may be opened and finished up 

 in one day in case of danger from cav- 

 ing or other source. I woukl say it 

 is best to use a steady, quiot team and 

 a wrought share, for fear of striking 

 large, solid stones. Drains may be cut 

 almost any width at either to}) or bot- 

 tom, in this way. I cut one outlet drain 

 4 feet deep, 20 inches wide at the sur- 

 face, and 4 inches at bottom, in a very 

 hard and stony subsoil. 



My mode is first to cut a deep and 

 wide furrow with a large pointer-plough 

 that will throw the furrow well out, so 

 as not to fall back when using the sub- 

 soil plough afterward. Then I come 

 back in the same furrow and throw out 

 as much more as we can on the other 

 side, without making the drain more 

 than 15 to 18 inches in width at the 

 surface. In this way it will be seen 



