THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST. 



189 



inserting buds in these young thrifty 

 sprouts. 



First cut a fresh shoot, of this sea. 



son's growth, from the 

 kind of tree you desire 

 to have, with well de- 

 veloped buds. Trim off' 

 all the leaves, leaving 

 ^ r about a half inch of 



V^ the petioles as a 



handle for each bud, 

 as in Fig. 1. Then 

 Fio. 1. with a keen-edged bud- 



ding knife remove the buds 

 quired, J taking care to 

 cut as little of the 

 wood as possible. 

 Then make a T sha})ed 

 cut in the stock quite 

 through to the wood, 

 as is shown in Fig. 2, 

 insert the bud from the 

 to}) downward, slipping 

 it neatly into its place 

 as in Fig. 3. Then tie 

 snugly with bass bark, Fig. 2. Fio. 3. Kio. 4. 

 or yarn, as shown in Fig. 4. 



Plums and pears (on pear stocks) 

 should be budded in July, while peaches 

 ai-e budded during the first half of Sep- 

 tember. These latter may be workril 

 with greater ease and success than any 

 other tree, providing always tlio stalk 

 is the current season's gi'owth from the 

 peach pit. 



About a fortnight after budding the 

 bandages should be loosened, and then 

 left until the following spring, when, 

 if the bud is alive, the stock should be 

 cut off about an inch above the bud. 



This is the whole secret, and we give 

 it to our readers hoping the practice of 



it may prove both interesting and pro- 

 fitable to practical horticulturists. 



This department is intended as an open 07ie to every 

 reader of the "Horticulturist" to send in either 

 questions or answers. Often a reader will be able to 

 answer a question tvhich has been left unanswered, 

 or only partially answered by us. For connenicnce 

 of reference the questions are numbered, and any 

 one replying or referring to any question will 

 please mention the number of it. 



55. Tomatoes. — As many of my fHends 

 are contemplating going rather largely 

 into toTnato growing for the Canning 

 companies, could you kindly state the 

 kind of soil suitable ; also the best arti- 

 ficial mamire and the best variety to 

 grow. [D. Berwick, Hamilton.] 



The best soil for the tomato is a light 

 sandy loam, which of course should re- 

 ceive very frequent cultivation. Pro- 

 bably there is no more ju-ofitable vari- 

 ety than the Trophy, if true to name. 

 We are trying this year the Impi-oved 

 Trophy and the Perfection, the lattev 

 of which is highly commended by Mr. 

 John Harris, of Rochester, and will 

 re))ort later on the result of the com- 

 paiison. Has any reader tested arti- 

 ficial manures for the tomato '\ 



56. Hardiest Apple Trees. — Please state 

 which are the hardiest apple-trees for this 

 seition ; which the largest gooseberries' 

 and currants ; and which plum-trees do 

 not yet the black knot. 



[A. DoiiERER, Hanover, Grey Co.] 

 (iSummer) Red Astracan and Yellow 

 Transparent and Duchess of Olden- 

 burgh ; (Fall) Alexander, Haas, St. 

 Lawrence, Cellini ; (Winter) Wealthy, 

 American Golden Russet, Wagner, 

 Westfield Seek-no-farther. 



57. Gooseberries and Currants. — The large 

 English gooseberries, such as Crown 

 Bob and Whitesmith, mildew badly in 

 Canada. The largest kinds that will suc- 

 ceed are Downing, Smith's Improved, 

 and Industry. The Cherry is the 



