930 



Popular Science Monthly 



other fittings, or sawed out from oak or 

 ash. 



A light sail is needed, and this may 

 be made at home on the family sewing 

 machine, or sew^ed entirely by hand. 

 Five-ounce unbleached cotton drill is 

 heavy enough, and yard wide material 

 may be used. The bights or laps are 

 made by turning over a fold on each 

 side, about i in. wide, and stitching 

 along the two edges. Narrow laps 

 about 6 or 8 ins. make a neater 

 appearance and strengthen the sail. 

 The laps must be made to run parallel 

 with the leech, as shown in the sail 

 plan, page 929. The corners of the sail 

 should be re-enforced with a segment 

 of canvas sewed on each side. About 

 I foot above the boom, sew in a row of 

 reef-points (3;^-inch cotton rope) so 

 that 6 ins. may hang from either 

 side. By tying these together around 

 the boom, the sail is shortened or 

 "reefed," as the nautical term expresses 

 it. The sail may be bound with cotton 

 rope, but a simple and strongly stitched 

 hem will answer. At the leech make a 

 i-in. hem, so that a small rope may 

 be run through to take up any slack as 

 the sail stretches out. This prevents 

 that bug-bear among sailors, a flapping 

 leech, and makes the sail set flat and 

 not bag. 



The sail is attached to the mast by 

 mast-hoops; either oak or metal hoops 

 may be used. Seven or nine hoops will 

 be needed, in the 3 or 33^-in. size. 

 Grummet holes must be worked in the 

 sail on the side marked hoist, and the 

 sail secured to the hoops by seizing 

 with a double strand of marline. To 

 make the grummet holes, purchase a 

 dozen or so of 3^-inch galvanized iron 

 grummet rings, cut a ^^-inch hole and 

 place a ring on either side of it, and sew 

 over and over with waxed sail-twine — 

 overcasting the ladies term it. Your 

 mother or sister will show you how to 

 do it. A row of grummets must also 

 be worked in along the boom and the 

 gaff to attach the sail to these spars, 

 putting a grummet at each lap or bight. 



To rig the boat, procure a mast band 

 with two eyes, of the right size to slip 

 down about 2 or 3 ins. from the top, 

 where it should bind firmly. Drive the 

 band on with the two eyes fore and aft, 



that is, in line with the boat. To the 

 forward eye, splice or seize a length of 

 3/16-in. wire rope, which must be long 

 enough to reach the stem where this end 

 is secured by seizing to an eyebolt 

 screwed into the oak stem. Instead, a 

 strap fitting the stem may be used. 

 This is the stay to support the mast. 



To the rear eye in the mast-head 

 band, seize a metal pulley-block (2-in. 

 shell, for }^-'\n. rope is correct size). 

 This is for the peak halyards. A foot 

 or so below this block, screw an eyebolt 

 in the mast and fasten a similar pulley 

 for the throat halyards. To the gafif, 

 splice or fasten a bridle of wire rope and 

 to it fasten the end of the peak halyard, 

 either with a bridle clip or a bull's-eye, 

 which is merely a wooden ring with a 

 groove in the outside circumference in 

 which the rope is spliced or seized. 



On each side of the deck, opposite 

 and about 6 ins. from the mast, 

 screw a galvanized deck-pulley. This 

 arrangement will lead the halyards aft 

 to within reach of the helmsman, and 

 also serve to support the mast. 



At the bow, screw an open bow-chock 

 3-in. size, on each side of the stem on 

 deck. A cleat is unnecessary on the 

 forward deck, for the mooring line may 

 be more securely fastened to the mast. 



The main sheet may be rigged in 

 several ways, but in a small sail like 

 this no great purchase is required, and 

 two single blocks will be sufficient. To 

 avoid shifting each time when going 

 about, however, a traveler may be 

 screwed to the after deck. This is 

 simply an iron rod about 18 ins. long, 

 fitting with a sliding ring to which a 

 pulley is seized. When going about on 

 another tack, the sail shifts without 

 attention. Cleats for belaying the sheet 

 may be screwed to each side of the deck, 

 but a cleat placed in the center of the 

 rear seat or on the deck, will make it 

 unnecessary to shift the rope every time 

 one goes about. 



A Cheap, Practical Mooring for Your Boat 



While a 20-pound anchor is about the 

 right size for our craft, most boatmen 

 prefer to use a heavier mooring for the 

 permanent anchorage, with a marking 

 buoy or pick-up. One of the best 

 moorings is easily and cheaply made of 



