30 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES. 



humble Cagliari, its rival for centuries; but it is 

 full of old-world fragments. The girdle of its walls, 

 many centuries old, may still be traced among the 

 mud-built cottages which now surround its better 

 buildings. It has a pleasing cathedral, a surprising 

 number of old churches, and if any one should be 

 desirous of enjoying a hearty laugh, let them visit the 



garden of Signer Vandolino C , just outside the 



town. The landlord of the hotel insisted on taking 

 me there one afternoon. Close to the entrance is a 

 bust of Pio Nono (rot to rotting away, as my guide 

 explained). The paths are lined with busts of Sar- 

 dinian celebrities of both sexes on pedestals, and 

 there are some 'of enormous size of the late King 

 Victor Emmanuel on the whole the queerest speci- 

 mens of amateur modelling ever seen. An olive- 

 tree in the garden, called Elleonora's (the Guidichessa 

 of Arborea), measures twenty-two feet in circum- 

 ference round the trunk. 



Before leaving the subject of sport in Sardinia, I 

 must mention the tunny fishing. This lasts from 

 early in May until the middle of June, though at the 

 northern fishery of Asmara, off Porto Torres, it is 

 protracted until the end of June. No one who enjoys 

 a little excitement should lose the chance of being 

 present at one of the slaughters, as they are called, 

 which take place on an average every other day 

 during the season. The three large fisheries are 

 those of Porto Scuso and Carloforte in the south, 

 Bosa off the west coast, and Asinara. 



