156 TRAVELS IN THE EIGHTIES. 



requisite permission to quit from the Turkish Aga. 

 I found him making a pile of cigarettes for the day's 

 consumption, and lying by his side was that remark- 

 able instrument so common in Mount Athos. It re- 

 sembles a long soup-ladle, and is used for well, for 

 scratching one's back. 



The next day found me tossing on the ^gean, on 

 my way back to the Dardanelles. 



