KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 247 



being confined entirely to the slopes facing the north, 

 and the hills being without snow below an altitude of 

 five thousand feet. The fine new bungalow at Ghari 

 is yet incomplete, and the old one exceptionally bad, 

 excluding neither wind nor water ; and here the chief 

 engineer, who has contracted for the construction of the 

 new road, is endeavouring to carry the latter under a 

 curious ridge which completely blocks up the flat por- 

 tion of the valley, in a most provoking manner. Just 

 as we reached this obstacle, after making a start from 

 Ghari for the fourth day's march, the engineer him- 

 self galloped up to superintend the work. A letter 

 from the Kashmir Eesident brought many kind offers 

 of hospitality from Atkinson Sahib; but the annual 

 snowfall was even now overdue, and we hurried on, 

 like the hero of the song, " Excelsior." Mahseer are 

 caught in the Jhelum, but it was too cold at present, 

 as I was informed, clear though the water was, and 

 low, making it a simple matter to clamber down and 

 reach the shelving strand of many a jade-green whirl- 

 pool. The floor of the Jhelum Yalley is cultivated 

 wherever sufficiently level to permit of irrigation, and 

 the river itself has hewn a deep and winding pathway, 

 through which it rushes, crossable only here and there 

 by means of a few rope bridges, each one consisting of 

 three cables, one on either side, and one below to walk 

 on, connected by a few cross pieces, and exceedingly 

 dangerous to any one affected in any degree by gid- 

 diness. Where no such bridge exists, the natives tie 

 their clothes in a bundle, with the exception of 



