KASHMIR AND THE HIMALAYAS IN MID-WINTER. 253 



or clothing, who assist at a very early age in towing, 

 punting, or rowing the boat, and are counted as able- 

 bodied members of the crew in the very modest 

 payment which the Maharajah's rules 'require one to 

 make for the different trips possible in various direc- 

 tions from Surinaggar. 



I found the air warmer at the capital, but decidedly 

 chilly, and the aspect picturesque, but wintry, for 

 snow lay upon the overhanging roofs of the wooden 

 houses. The quarters set apart by His Highness for 

 married officers and their wives visiting the locality 

 are the best of the various travellers' bungalows, but 

 even the others I found to contain two stories, a most 

 unusual circumstance. 



One of the chief shawl merchants appropriated me 

 even before I had arrived at the city, for he came out 

 with his boat to meet the dungas, and thenceforward 

 I only stayed for two days kept ward and watch 

 over me that none of his competitors might tempt me 

 with cheaper wares, for which I was not sorry, as, in 

 addition to various little attentions which he paid, 

 such as lending me a bedstead, and treating me to a 

 breakfast a la Kashmiri, none of his opponents ven- 

 tured within sight. 



The inhabitants, old and young, were mostly dressed 

 in warm white woollen shawls or clothing. The 

 river winds sluggishly through the town, spanned by 

 many wooden bridges, and walled in by tall pictur- 

 esque houses resembling Swiss chalets. The streets 

 were decidedly the dirtiest I had ever seen, more so 



