The Canadian Horticultukist, 



rasi'bi:rr\' culturi:. 



ITHIX a few years back a notable change has been introduced in 

 the general management of the raspberry. The only pruning 

 formerly given to this plant was confined to cutting out old stems 

 which had fruited, thinning out the young stems which were to 

 produce the next crop, and shortening them by cutting off a 

 portion of their tops. These would then be fastened to a stake 

 or some similar su])p()rt, and this completed the pruning for the season. But 

 the more modern system obviates the necessity of any kind of support and the 

 plants are managed so that they are able to support themselves when full of 

 fruit. This is accomplished by allowing the first year's growth of newly set-out 

 plants to grow undisturbed : the second year two or more shoots will be 

 produced, and when these have reached to a height of about two feet their tops 

 are pinched off, so as to stop their further upright growth : they will then 

 proceed to push out side shoots or laterals on all sides, balancing and supporting 

 themselves very effectually and appearing like small, evenly headed trees. 

 When growth has been completed for the season and the leaves have fallen 

 these side shoots are pruned back so as to leave them from 12 to 16 inches in 

 length, according to their strength. This pruning can be done quite rapidly 

 with pruning shears. At the same time, if not before, all the old stems or canes 

 which have fruited are also removed ; but many cultivators prefer to remove 

 these old stems immediately after the fruit has been gathered, claiming that by 

 so doing the young canes have greater freedom of growth ; also, that by promptly 

 removing the old canes many kinds of insects w^iich lodge in the old wood and 

 have cocoons and nests upon it are thus destroyed by burning all the prunings 

 as they are collected. This system is continued annually ; no greater number 

 of young shoots than is required are allowed to grow, all others being destroyed 

 as they reach a few inches in height. The summer topping is attended to as 

 previously stated, and the result of this routine treatment is a self-supporting 

 plant and improved fruit. — Exchange. 



In storing celery for market, it is dug and put in trenches or in store houses. 

 The latter are made with four inch packing on all sides, of sawdust or leaves, 

 and w-'th provision or shedding rain and for ventilation. Trenching is prefer- 

 able where the celery is to be kept a long time, but in severe weather the 

 trenches are often controlled by the frost for weeks. For family use, it can be 

 kept in the cellar or in boxes. The boxes should be as high as the celery, one 

 foot, and any length. Four inches of sand or soil is then placed in the box, 

 soaked with water. The plants should be packed closely in the box, straight up 

 with their roots in the wet sand, but without any soil between the plants. 

 Examine the soil occasionally, and saturate it with water if it has become dry, 

 but do not wet the celery. It will keep in this way two or three months. The 

 crop for storing should be dug only when perfectly dry, and even the dew should 

 be allowed to dry off. — Farm and Home. 



