The Canadian Horticulturist. 45 



(;r()\\ix(; wathrmklons. 



HA\^E tried many methods of culture, many kinds of manure, and 

 many kinds of soils to grow the best melon, and I find the following 

 the best I have found some soils, even light soils, that will not pro- 

 duce tine melons. They would have a rusty look. As a rule the best 

 soil is a light, sandy loam, and if newly cleared, or not having been 

 cultivated for three years previous in melons, so much the better. 

 Whatever lends to compact the soil, whether rainy weather or a deficiency of 

 vegetable matter, is detrimental to the crop. I find the richer the soil, provided 

 it be warm and light, the finer the melons. The ground should be broken quite 

 deep, the deeper the better; broadcast manure over it quite liberally, and then 

 *horoughly mix it with the soil. The finer the soil and the better the manure is 

 mixed with it the better the crop. I prefer marking both ways, as the plants can 

 be cultivated better. Two shovelfuls of good manure should be put in each 

 cross. The best manure used is well-rotted leaf mold and stable manure, put in 

 alternate layers of equal proportion. This should be well rotted and turned over 

 until thoroughly mixed. It may not rush the plant while young, so much as all 

 stable manure, but it will bring more and finer melons. I make good-sized hills, 

 not too high, and drop at least a dozen seeds in each. This is important, for 

 two reasons : so many plants aid each other in raising the soil, and come up 

 better ; some seed give stronger plants than others, and will bear better fruit. 

 Planting so many in the hill, we are more apt to get strong plants. These can 

 be selected after the plants are up, leaving two of the best in the hill. As soon 

 as the i)lants are up well, go over the patch with the hoe, and loosen the soil 

 around the plants. Be careful not to disturb them. I cultivate deep the three 

 first plowings, then shallow until done cultivating. I plow the ground thoroughly 

 between the rows each plowing. The less the vines are moved the better. I 

 ruined a crop by moving the vines after they began to set fruit. As to pinching 

 the vines, I doubt if it pays. There may be a small per cent, more melons, but 

 on the average they are smaller. 



After the melons are grown there is much gained in picking at the right time. 

 Some varieties are more difficult to tell when ripe than others, and such are 

 likely to be inferior in quality. The Icing Rind (Ice Cream called by some), is 

 by far the best flavored melon I know, and the most profitable to grow. It is 

 also the easiest to pick or tell when ripe. 



In j)icking, observe the following rules: The rind of melons generally be- 

 comes hard, and the pulp brittle when ripe. The part in contact with the ground 

 will be changed from a white to a yellow, and upon' close examination numerous 

 small pimples, somewhat like the measles, will be noticed on the surface, parti- 

 cularly on the outer edge. With these signs, if the melon be gently pressed, 

 and it cracks inside, it may be regarded as ripe. The top side of a melon when 

 ripe is of a dull, lifeless brown color. In '"pulling" the melon, cut the stem 

 with a knife, lea zing at least an inch of the stem to the melon, and they keep 

 better.- Farm and Fireside. 



