The Canadian Horticulturist. 313 



HOW TO WINTER CABBAGE 



When cabbage are wanted in the spring only, they may be taken up, roots 

 and all and laid on the ground, roots up, as close together as they will lie, the 

 cabbage part just covered with soil. Where they are wanted for market or use 



during winter, a very good way is 



shown in the illustration, and is de- 



^,. ^.^g «j<^^-:' scribed in the Rural New Yorker, as 



^ ^i^j^^ ^i ""^^^^^'^^^X A pit eight inches deep, and three 



j^^ffii^^^=**^^^is**^^^^P and one-half to four feet wide, and of 



J^j ^^^^ ^^^^^'^'^Z^^^^^^^^^ the proper length, is first dug, and 



'*^~^^^:^=p^^ ' ' ""^ boards or slabs are placed at the 



Fig. 82.-DEVICE for Wintering Cabbage" bottom. The cabbages are cut and 



well trimmed, and packed in the pit, as 

 shown. Frames of 2X4-inch scantling are made and placed upright in the 

 pit. For a pit 15 feet long, three of these are needed. Fence-boards are 

 nailed to these frames, thus forming a complete crate. This is covered lightly 

 with straw, and then with about four inches of dirt. The ends are stuffed 

 with straw, which can be removed whenever cabbage-heads are desired. 



Cellar for Storing Roots. — Fourteen hundred bushels of roots will 

 require between 2150 and 2200 cubic feet of storage-room. The main object 

 in storing roots is to keep them at a uniform temperature as little above the 

 freezing point as practicable. One of the best ways to do this is simply to pile 

 them in long narrow piles on well-drained ground, convenient to the place where 

 they are to be fed. An excavation about a foot deep should be made and a 

 layer of clean straw placed beneath the roots. When the pile of roots has been 

 made it should be covered thickly with straw and then with a foot of earth. At 

 distances of six or eight feet along the apex of the pile, a drain-tile should be 

 inserted to give ventilation. For a permanent cellar, in many cases, the most 

 convenient arrangement is simply to partition off a corner of the barn basement 

 by setting up 10 or 12-inch studs, boarding on both sides and stuffing the 

 interstices with chaff or cut straw.- Often a very convenient root cellar may be 

 made in a gravelly or sandy bank adjoining the barn cellar. This arrangement 

 is especially convenient where the root-cellar can be so built that it can be filled 

 from the driveway in the second floor of the barn. Where a cellar is built in 

 this way, grout w'alls, cemented on the inside, should be used, both as a protection 

 from cold and against rats. The relative advantages and cost of these various 

 ways of storing roots will, of course, depend entirely upon individual circumstances 

 and surroundings. — Am. Gardening. 



