72 The Canadian Horticulturist. 



currant, which would only tend to increase the difficulty described. Some 

 gardeners, however, spur in the side shoots near the extremity of the canes in 

 order to increase the size of the fruit. In the experience of some gooseberry 

 growers the mildew is much less troublesome where the bushes are well pruned. 

 This is a very important consideration in the case of the finer varieties, as, for 

 instance, the White Smith or Crown Bob. 



The currant needs different treatment from the gooseberry, and, while the 

 number of canes that are allowed to grow should not be too many 

 the strongest of these need to be shortened in every spring one-third of the new 

 growth. This causes development of a large number of side shoots which are 

 the bearing wood for the coming season. The fact is that with the finer kinds 

 of currants, as, for instance, the Cherry and the Fay's, there is little fear of over- 

 production, but, being strong feeders, they usually will mature a large quantity 

 of fine sized fruit. Commoner varieties of currants, however, are inclined to 

 over-bear, and are scarcely worth growing for market purposes. Buyers now a 

 days want large sized fruit, and will pay two or three cents more a quart fof the 

 varieties mentioned than for any others we know of. 



GROWING PEARS. 



|HE fact that pear culture is no longer seriously hindered by blight makes 

 a few hints timely as to method of planting and culture. I have for 

 many years grown pears headed low toward the ground. To secure such, I have 

 sometimes negotiated beforehand with nurserymen to prevent their being trim- 

 med up in the nursery. I prefer them branched out at three feet from the soil. 

 The reasons are obvious, (i) They come to bearing as soon as dwarfs, thus 

 saving three to five years before getting a crop. (2) For picking there is great 

 advantage. You can gather the fruit for several years with a step-ladder. (3) All 

 fallen fruit lies comparatively uninjured. (4) In case of drought the limbs shade 

 the soil and equalize temperature. It must be born in mind that more damage 

 to fruit occurs from severe changes of temperature than from extreme cold. 

 (5) You are able to trim the trees as they should be without much trouble. 

 Pear-trees should, for the first five or six years, be gone over twice a year. In 

 midsummer cut out all superfluous shoots and suckers, and in November, head 

 back the new growth one-third. 



I also have for many years grown pear-trees as Dr. Meehan first suggested, 

 "in grass." By that is not meant that the trees stand in sod, but that instead of 

 being cultivated with the plow they be cultivated with the fork. Let the trees 

 be well mulched with coarse manure or ashes of anthracite coal mixed with 

 wood ashes. Turn this over and cleanse it of weeds once a year and thoroughly 

 aerate it. It should be renewed once in two years. The principle is to keep 

 the feet warm while the head is kept cool. The circle forked over should be 



