The Canadian HoRTicaLTURisT. 



107 



land having been thoroughly prepared, as for corn, is marked out in rows, say 

 three feet apart, and the kernels planted in the drills about an inch deep and 

 three or four inches apart in the rows. If the season is favorable, the seedlings 

 will mostly be ready for budding in the following August or September. The 

 sticks of the bud are cut from the young wood of such varieties as it is desired to 

 propagate, and, the leaves being removed with ihe exception of the petiole which 

 serves as a handle, the buds are cut out as required and in the manner shown 



in the accompanying illustration. VN'ith a 

 knife adapted for the purpose, a " T " 

 shaped incision is made in the bark of the 

 \ young tree near the ground, usually on 

 the north side, and this enables the oper- 

 ator to lift the bark and neatly insert the 

 bud in its place, when' it is immediately 

 tied, either with some soft cord, or, what is better, with strips 

 of the inner bark of the basswood tree. All 

 these operations are so plainly shown in our illus- 

 trations, that farther details are unnecessary. The 

 following spring the seedling trees are cut off just 

 above the inserted bud, and the whole strength of 

 Cutting of bud. the tree directed into it ; as a result it will grow so 

 rapidly, that it will be large enough for orchard planting by 

 another spring. 



The best soil for the peach orchard is a sandy loam, well 

 drained, and it should be well prepared, both by thorough culti- 

 vation, and a good dressing of wood ashes before planting. 

 Where the Yellows does not prevail, the peach trees may be planted twenty feet 

 apart each way, but, where the trees are short lived on account of this disease, 

 we are planting them much closer. 



On page 6 of volume 13 will be found a good list of peaches for shipping 

 purposes. 



Fio. 30. 



Fio. 31.J 



Manner of inserting' 



a bud. 



Grape Vines on Heavy Soils. — The old idea that grapes thrive best on 

 light land is mainly due to the fact that such soils are naturally dry. While a 

 heavy clay is not best for the grape, it is no insuperable obstacle to success in 

 vineyarding, provided it is thoroughly underdrained. In fact, grape growing is 

 possible under a wider range of conditions and soil than is the case with any 

 other crop. The one thing that grape roots cannot abide is stagnant water. No 

 matter if this dries out in mid-summer it is then past the power of the vine to 

 regain lost time. Land thoroughly drained to the depth of three feet warms more 

 quickly in the spring and makes a difference in temperature of five to ten degrees 

 or more at the time when the vine most needs warmth. 



