The Canadian Horticulturist. 121 



SPRAYING PLUM TREES WITH COPPER SOLUTIONS. 



Sir, — 1 have about 150 old plum trees, and about 1000 young ones, five years planted. 

 I am well versed in spraying with Paris Green. I divide a pound into six parts, and use 

 one part in a 40 gallon barrel. I can spray 1000 trees per day. I would like to know 

 something about spraying with copper solutions. 



Thos. Plunket, Mea/ord. 



According to Prof. Maynard, of Amherst, Mass., the plum curculio, the 

 black knot and the rotting of the fruit, may all be overcome by treating with 

 Bordeaux mixture and Paris green, at least, such was the result of his experience 

 last year on the College grounds. The plum wart was prevented by it, and the 

 few knots that gained a hold on the branches were destroyed by applying a kero- 

 sene paste. This paste is simply kerosene, with some dry pigment added to 

 make it conspicuous. To be effectual this paste must be applied early in the 

 season as soon as the knot begins to enlarge. 



His treatment with copper solutions is the same as that described on page 102 

 for apple scab, viz. : applying sulphate of copper before leaves expand, then the 

 combined Paris green and Bordeaux mixture until, say July ist, after which either 

 the latter or the ammoniacal carbonate of copper. 



PROPAGATING ROSES BY LAYERS. 



Sir, — Would you kindly give me some directions for propagating young plants from a 

 climbing rose. 



J. M. Wells, Pinkerton. 



The following reply from " Parsons' on the Rose" is submitted by Mr. IV. C. 



Barry, of Rochester. 

 This mode is more particularly applicable to those roses that bloom only 

 once in the year, and which do not strike freely from cuttings, although it can 

 be equally well applied to all the smooth wooded kinds. It can be performed 

 at midsummer and for several weeks afterward, and should be employed only in 

 those cases where young shoots have been formed at least a foot long and are 

 well matured. The soil should be well dug around the plant, forming a little 

 raised bed of some three feet in diameter, with the soil well pulverized and 

 mixed with some manure thoroughly decomposed, and, if heavy, a little sand. 

 A hole should then be made in this bed about four inches deep, and the young 

 matured shoot bent down into it, keeping the top of the shoot some three or 

 four inches above the surface of the ground; the angle thus being found, 

 which should always be made at a bud and about five or six inches from 

 the top of the shoot, the operator should cut off all the leaves below the ground. 

 A sharp knife should then be placed just below a bud, about three inches below 



