CH. VI. HOPE RIVER. 79" 



For some distance after crossing the Tongue ferry 

 the road is dreary and bleak, passing over a brown 

 and wet tract of mossy ground, and for several miles 

 we continued ascending. The wind and rain were 

 incessant and very heavy. Having surmounted the 

 highest ridge, we descended the hill to the Hope 

 River, which is crossed by what is called a chain- 

 boat ; that is, we drive upon a wooden platform with- 

 out taking the horse out of the carriage. The plat- 

 form then, with all upon it, is hauled across the 

 river by means of a chain and windlass. The 

 glen through which the river Hope runs is very 

 beautifully shut in by its wooded banks ; and the 

 grey mountains offering a new point of interest at 

 every turn of the road, give never-ceasing pleasure 

 and excitement. Here we continually saw eagles 

 and other rare birds. A shepherd told us that the 

 lambs were killed every day by eagles ; but he 

 seemed to know little, and to care less, about the 

 breeding-place of the birds. It is nearly impossible 

 to get a direct or truthlike answer from many of 

 the Highlanders ; for though intelligent enough, 

 they seem to have a kind of suspicious dislike to 

 giving information. 



One thing particularly struck me in this part of 

 the country. Depending on the Duke of Suther- 

 land's well-known kindness and liberality, the lower 



