IN THE STATE OF DENMARK 135 



ordinary foreigner within measurable distance of 

 success. We eyed a door which bore the solemn 

 inscription, " Gods' Expedition," and told each other 

 that though we might think we understood it and 

 could say it, as a matter of fact we didn't and couldn't, 

 and yet another door still more mysteriously desig- 

 nated " Lill Gods' Expedition," " Lill " meant httle ; 

 who were the little gods ? Was this the route by 

 which Odin and party went to Valhalla on the arrival 

 of Saint Ansgarius (see Murray) ? We afterwards 

 found that Lill Gods' Expedition was the name they 

 called the parcels' office, and lill gods were hand 

 parcels, which is absurd. 



After the second change the country seemed to 

 have more richness of autumn about it, while yet it 

 kept some lingering semblance of summer in hedges 

 and gardens ; the sun streamed upon us through the 

 uncurtained glass with tepid amiability, and the 

 landscape developed a suggestion of boldness in its 

 contours as we went north-west towards the centre 

 of Jutland, where lie the lakes and woods that make 

 the Danish Killarney. In the early afternoon we 

 neared Himmelbjerg, a wooded hill of five hundred 

 feet high, that the Dane has, with unconscious pathos, 

 styled Heaven's mountain. He has built hotels 

 from which to gaze upon it, he has made zigzag 

 paths by which the tourist may accomplish the 

 ascent. Its steep bluff rises with extraordinary 

 importance and effect at the end of a long and winding 

 lake, and to look across the water to it while the 

 train followed the curves of the lake shore was a 

 refreshment to eyes accustomed during many days 

 of journey to low and endless undulations. 



The tourist yet lingered in his summer resorts ; he 

 smoked in verandahs that commanded a good view 

 of the station ; he saw his friends and their lill gods 



