206 STRAY -AW AYS 



and on benches, sit in parboiled rows the victims of 

 their systems, and of that of the Etabhssement 

 Thermal d'Aix-les-Bains. They suggest a wearied 

 congregation who have collapsed at the doors of 

 the church. Above them towers the huge white 

 fagade, with its three high-arched portals, and its 

 wide, high flights of steps. For this Pool of Siloam 

 is set half-way up a steep hill, and one mounts rather 

 than descends to its healing waters. Echoing stone 

 galleries extend right and left from the domed central 

 hall, where a little twelve-year-old Egeria sits by 

 the first visible manifestation of the Source, dealing 

 tepid tooth-glassfuls from the three taps of alum, 

 sulphur and plain cold water, under her control. 

 Egeria sometimes nods; with the music born of 

 hurrying water ever in her ears and breakfast at 



4 a.m. it can scarcely be wondered at. For at 



5 a.m. the Etablissment opens its wide doors, and 

 the staff, from the magnificent gold-laced, scarlet- 

 bosomed concierge, down to little Egeria, are in 

 waiting till eleven, and again from two till five p.m. 



In all the various " Cercles," and Purgatory can 

 scarce boast more, the mermen and merwomen are 

 scouring and kneading impotent items of humanity, 

 whose proportions, as viewed at table d^hote, suggest 

 now a feather bed, now a sketching easel. Personally, 

 in a matter of massage, I should prefer to practise 

 on a sketching easel. Sleepy men in shabby uniform 

 line the long corridors. Beside them stand the 

 chais.es-d-porteurs, sedan chairs, hybrid between a 

 hearse and a puppet-show. The patients, swathed 

 in blankets, are borne home in these mute, mysterious 

 conveyances. The bath attendant supplies the name 

 of the hotel and the number of the room — it is on 

 record that embarrassing mistakes have not seldom 

 been made — and then all is silence. Sometimes a 



