io6 LIFE OF THE AUTHOR. 



that it fairly astounds the beholder. There must be good doings at 

 the Hotel d'Europe in this ancient city ; for we had scarcely got 

 into it, when I spied a sleek and well-fed Hanoverian rat, basking in 

 a sunny nook. It looked at us with the most perfect indifference, 

 as much as to say, ' I have capital pickings here, both for myself 

 and my relatives.' How well this plodding animal contrives to 

 fatten both in a cold climate and in a warm one ! Although so late 

 in the season, we could perceive numerous bats over our heads as we 

 were sitting in the gondola. Woodcocks were lying at the shop 

 windows in great abundance. 



" If you chance to be near the Church of St Mark just at the time 

 of ' Ave Maria/ when the people of Venice stand in the street with 

 their hats off, and say a short prayer of thanksgiving for the blessings 

 received during the day, you will see a man with a light in each hand 

 before a statue of the Blessed Virgin. Popular tradition concerning 

 it is, that a murder had been committed in one of the streets. After 

 the assassin had effected his deed of blood, he took to his heels, and 

 thus escaped detection ; but he dropped the bloody knife, near where 

 the body of his victim lay. On the following morning, a poor shoe- 

 maker, at an early hour, had left his house to take his usual walk ; 

 and most unfortunately for himself, he had an empty knife-case in 

 his pocket. On his being taken up by the police, and his person 

 searched, this case was found to fit exactly the fatal knife ; and upon 

 this demonstrative evidence, the shoemaker was executed. At a later 

 period, the real murderer was taken up, and confessed his crime. The 

 Republic of Venice then ordered, that two torches should always be 

 lighted at the hour of Ave Maria, in commemoration of the innocent 

 shoemaker's fate ; and to this day, his soul is remembered in the 

 prayers of the citizens. 



" At Venice, the kind Jesuit Fathers gave us a letter of introduction 

 to those of Loretto. Pigeons in the city of Venice are remarkably 

 numerous. They retire to roost, and also make their nests in the 

 facades of the churches, and behind the ornamental statues of the 

 saints, and in the holes of the walls where scaffolding is used. These 

 pigeons are uncommonly tame, and I question if they have any 

 owners. Cats and dogs being scarce in Venice, may be one cause of 

 a plenitude of pigeons. 



