PaiJer Dresses. 127 



To rob a diligence seems not to be disgraceful in Mexico, 

 for though it is committed by common ruffians and thieves, 

 even people of a higher class look upon it as a chez>aleresque 

 sport. There are many well-to-do rancheros or farmers, living 

 quite respectably and otherwise in good repute, of whom it 

 is said that they indulge in this harmless amusement ! The 

 robbers take care to conceal their faces, either by blackening 

 them or in some other manner, and if not resisted, or not in 

 danger of being recognised, they rarely commit murder. They 

 generally ride splendid horses, and are most richly dressed. 



At some fivourable place, and there are plenty on that road, 

 the mules are "suddenly stopped. The coachman does not 

 even attempt to escape or resist ; it is his policy to remain neu- 

 tral, for if he acted otherwise it would be not only in vain, but 

 cost him his life — a bullet from behind some bush would end 

 his career at his next journey. He therefore in most cases is 

 not molested, remaining a passive spectator of the scene, which 

 is enacted with incredible celerity. Though the escort now 

 and then furnished by the authorities is mostly absent w^hen 

 needed, it sometimes happens that they are at hand, and to 

 escape such danger the robbers are compelled to act without 

 any ceremony. Whilst one of them takes care of the team, 

 two others, cocked pistol in hand, invite the passengers to 

 descend and to undress, as it is well known that they try to 

 conceal their valuables in their clothes. The terror and con- 

 fusion created by such an order may be imagined especially if 

 there are ladies amongst the passengers. 



An American lady, the wife of a Southern general, who had 

 to travel to Vera Cruz with her daughter, was very much afraid 

 of being subjected to such treatment, which would have des- 

 troyed many illusions created by Parisian toilet art. She 

 therefore, being a very practical lady, provided against such 

 horrible emergency by having made for herself and daughter 

 paper dresses, which being without value would not tempt the 

 cupidity of robbers; She had, however, no opportunity of 

 making use of her ingenious expedient. 



On this journey, as on all others I made later in Mexico, . 

 was fortunate enough never to encounter any of these way- 

 laying gentry. 



The road and the landscape scene from it became more and 

 more interesting, but scarcely for the poor mules, which dicl 



