" HOLY RUSSIA." 283 



or prejudice, the depth or shallowness of the sweeping 

 claims of the Orthodox. 



That the Russians are strict observers of the out- 

 ward forms of religion there is no room for dispute ; 

 but are they really a religious people ? The first doubt 

 probably finds its way into your mind through the 

 medium of the extremely pious coachman, who has 

 been driving you about to visit the gorgeous cathedrals. 

 Though he has removed his perky isvoshchic's hat 

 twenty times and made twenty crosses with every 

 mark of reverence during the hour of his engagement, 

 when you come to pay him off he will not unlikely 

 assure you that you engaged him not one but two 

 hours ago, and all but literally pick your pocket. The 

 smile of roguish enjoyment that comes into his face is 

 in no way abashed by the sign of the Cross which he 

 immediately makes, and if he has swindled you to his 

 heart's satisfaction he will very likely jog along to the 

 nearest shrine and make several signs of the Cross. 



Though this happens at a very early stage of your 

 investigations, a glimmer of light begins to break over 

 your understanding, and awakens a suspicion that all 

 this show of holiness springs less from fear of God than 

 fear of evil spirits. This idea grows upon you in pro- 

 portion to the length of your stay in the country, and 

 increases with the growth of 3'our acquaintance with 

 the people. And if you stay long enough, and investi- 

 gate the subject as thoroughly as may be, your first 

 suspicion is very apt to be confirmed. 



The educated Russians may be dismissed from the 

 subject of religion sans ceremonie. As a class they 

 represent the extreme section of atheism, free thought, 



