CHAPTER XIX. 



ORTHODOX CHURCH AND PRIESTS. 



ON the streets of every city, every town, and in every 

 village, from one end of Russia to another, the 

 foreign traveler passes men whose habit is sufficiently 

 distinct from others to attract attention. The habit in 

 question consists of a long cloth gown that reaches to 

 the ankles, a soft felt billycock hat, and heavy top 

 boots. The gown usually is black, but is sometimes 

 blue, and is girdled snugly about the waist. Whether 

 you meet one of these odd figures on the most fashion- 

 able street in St. Petersburg, or in a remote village of 

 a distant province, the dress, figure, and deportment 

 are identically the same. 



These gentlemen are the popes, or "white clergy " of 

 Holy Russia. The long gown and severely simple at- 

 tire are supposed to be in imitation of the Saviour 

 when on earth, and the likeness is increased by wear- 

 ing long hair. 



From the standpoint of an outsider the Russian 

 pope cuts a comical, not to say contemptible, figure on 

 the world's stage. Viewing him from a plane beyond 

 his sphere of influence you feel like laughing him off 

 the boards, but install yourself among the people who 

 are forced to have dealings with him and he changes 

 from a comical to a serious character, whose deserts 

 would be hootings and carrots rather than merriment. 



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