Proceedings of the Farmers' Club. 491 



the ends and makes more work cutting, and if left in the field too long 

 after cutting the sun bleaches, beside the risk of bad weather. It 

 should be dried in sheds. To give the mode of tabling, cutting and 

 curing, in detail, would require too much space. To be successful, 

 and grow on a large scale, requires experience, and new beginners 

 usually spoil one or two crops. We have been in the business twelve 

 years, and averaged nearly 100 acres per year, and have much to learn 

 yet. 



How to Kaise Cabbages. 

 Mr.. A. C. High, White Deer Mills, Penn. — Allow me to give a 

 statement of my cabbage raising in the summer of 1871. I planted 

 600 plants, say on the 1st of July, on very ordinary soil which had 

 been planted in corn the year previous, gave it a light dressing of 

 barn-yard manure at the rate of about ten two-horse loads per acre. 

 After the plants had started I put about three bushels of the contents 

 of privy in a tight barrel and filled with water, and gave my cabbages 

 two doses of the liquid at an interval of about two weeks. The result 

 was I had 599 large, solid heads of cabbage of first quality. 



How to Kaise Cokn. 

 A letter of inquiry was recently referred to Mr. William Crozier, 

 who submitted the following reply regarding his practices in cultivat- 

 ing corn on his Long Island farm : I plow the land in the fall, fur- 

 rows straight, seven inches deep and nine wide; in spring harrow 

 well and cross-plow a little deeper ; again harrow well ; furrow out 

 six inches deep and three and one-half feet wide ; put one good 

 shovelful of manure to every two feet, spread or level with back of 

 hoe ; drop the corn one foot apart, a single kernel in a place ; cover 

 with plow, and then run a brisk harrow over the field ; this levels off 

 the tops of the rows, and makes a very even covering, and takes away 

 any small stones, weeds or tufts which might obstruct the growth of 

 the young plants. After the plants are up three or four days, I take a 

 large Scotch harrow and run it over the field lengthwise. This is as 

 good as a hoeing to start with. One week later I use ahorse hoe and 

 continue its use until the corn gets so large that I cannot pass through 

 it. The last time of going through I take off the shares and let down 

 the wings so as to raise a little loam around the roots. I cut my corn 

 before fully ripe, shock up in large shocks, which is a great benefit to 

 both corn and fodder, and husk as soon as time will permit. 



