1878. 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



837 



their hives, it has been suggested that a 

 mixture of melted wax and resin be poured 

 into the hive and made to flow along the 

 cracks and corners. This may do very well, 

 although I fancy the bees can do this better 

 and cheaper than we can. Our principal 

 trouble has been to get rid of the surplus 

 propolis, and I would miich rather hear of 

 some invention to keep it out of the way, 

 than to add more. 



It has been recently suggested that we 

 paint our hives both inside and out, and 

 also the frames, except where we wish to 

 have the comb attached. From what ex- 

 perience I have had with painted bottom 

 boards, I am inclined to favor the idea, for 

 even if propolis is attached to the paint, it 

 cleaves olf much more readily than from 

 the plain wood. By keeping the surface on 

 any wood work on the inside of the hives 

 well oiled, or even rubbed with tallov.% we 

 may almost entirely prevent the accumula- 

 tion of propolis. Many inventors of hives, 

 and arrangements to be used inside of hives, 

 seem utterly oblivious of the fact, that eve- 

 rything, in the course of time, is not only 

 waxed over with this gum, but all holes, 

 cracks, and interstices, where the bee can- 

 not crawl, are filled, and covered up with 

 it. Many new arrangements work nicely 

 the first season, but after a year or two 

 more, are so clogged and fastened up, as to 

 be utterly impracticable. It is propolis that 

 is the great hindrance to all closed tops, or 

 closed end frames for brood combs, to the 

 old fashioned honey boards to all sorts of 

 slides and hinges, or to anything else about 

 a hive that is to move like machinery. On 

 account of the troubles with propolis, I have 

 advised a plain simple box, for both the 

 chaff and simplicity hives, and for the same 

 reasons, principally, I prefer to use the met- 

 al cornered frames. It is all very well, to 

 talk about keeping the propolis out of the 

 joints and connections, but in our locality, 

 in the fall of the year, we often have it in 

 such quantities that it runs during a hot 

 day, like molasses, all through every part 

 of the hive, at times, making ones fingers 

 stick to the utensils, so it is almost impossi- 

 ble to lay them down when we would. With 

 tlie ordinary wood top bars to the frames, 

 when tlie supporting arms are removed from 

 the rabbets, the propolis will rim down so 

 that, when the frame is put back, it is bed- 

 ded almost as nicely as if it was laid in glue. 

 Should the weather be cool when next your 

 hive is to be opened, the stick must bepx'ied 

 up with a snap, that is not at all according 



to the liking of our bees, the most of them, 

 even if they are pure Italians. To obviate 

 this, I believe the metal rabbet, or, at least, 

 a strip of hoop iron, is now in general use; 

 but the bees will, in time, wax a wood sup- 

 porting arm pretty firmly, even to this, be- 

 s ides there is an almost constant liability of 

 cutting bees in two, when the frames are 

 put in place. I know of no way of working 

 safely and rai)idly, except with the knife 

 edge supports which the metal corners give; 

 j yet I know a great many do not like them. 

 In using the wood top bars, I should always 

 carry a small screw driver in my pocket, 

 with wliich to pry*things loose about the 

 hive. 



HOW TO KEEP PROPOLIS FR031 SURPLUS 

 HONEY. 



Of course, the readiest means is to remove 

 all sections just as soon as a single one is 

 capped over ; and, as but little propolis is 

 gathered during a strong yield of honey, 

 but little will be found on the honey, unless 

 it is left until the yield has ceased. Tiie 

 bees not only cover all the wood work of the 

 sections if left on too long, but they also 

 varnish over the whole surface of the white 

 capping, almost spoiling the looks and sale 

 of the honey. We can keep it from the wood, 

 by having every part of the sections cov- 

 ered, when in the hive, except the inner 

 sides where the combs are attached. Our 

 frames for section boxes, as described, do 

 this effectually. 



HOW TO REMOVE PROPOLIS FROM THE FIN- 

 GERS. 



A varie;y of substances have been sug- 

 gested. Alcohol is perhaps the neatest, but 

 is rather expensive ; benzine answers near- 

 ly as well, but has an objectionable odor; 

 soap will answer, if a little lard be rubbed 

 on the hands first, but will have little effect 

 on it otherwise. A friend down South says 

 he has a pair of light cotton gloves, which 

 he slips on when handling the waxy frames, 

 and his hands are left clean whenever he is 

 obliged to stop work. For removing it 

 from glass, etc., alcohol is perhaps best. 



DO THE BEES NEED PROBOLIS V 



Much discussion has arisen in regard to 

 the habit of the bees, of making all openings 

 tight with propolis. Theory says, if allowed 

 to follow his bent, or instinct, he will 

 smother liimself to death. Practice says, 

 he does, at least at times, so prevent the es- 

 cape of moisture, that liis licme gets damp 

 and wet, filled with icicles, etc., eo that he 

 suffers; or at Isast, such is the case in the 

 hives we havo provided [for him. Who is 



