i» 



May, 1915. 



THE CANADIAN HORTICUL.TURIST 



Growing Dahlias in the Home Garden 



127 



I' I ' HE introduction of the Cactus type 



I I gave an impetus to dahlia eul- 



] ture that was undreamed of by 



:€ven the most sanguine, and awakened 



an interest that is world-wide and of 



[growing influence. This type is the 



J most popular, and bids fair to remain 



[so indefinitely. Hybridizers the world 



lover are devoting much attention to it, 



and the results achieved are commeur- 



surate with the efforts put forth. 



Among other types of dahlias we 

 have the "Decorative," the "Quilled," 

 the "Singles," and the latest, the 

 paeony-flowered type. 



The single type was the original 

 dahlia, and it must be admitted that 

 its development by hybridization has 

 been sensational. The small star- 

 shaped flowers have been replaced by 

 the large round-petalled sorts of to- 

 day, with rays overlapping, color in- 

 tensified, and symmetry of form which 

 demonstrates man's ideal has been in- 

 delibly stamped upon them. 



Soil and Preparation. 



Dahlias will succeed in any soil that 

 will produce good corn or potatoes; 

 but if one can make a choice it would 

 be better to select one rather light, 

 well-drained, and fairly rich. More 

 flowers, and of a better quality, will be 



By Henry Gibson 



produced in such a soil than on a heavy 

 one with a clay bottom. In fact, the 

 latter kind of soil is most unsuitable 

 for the cultivation of dahlias. Should 

 such a soil be all that is available, the 

 subsoil will need to be broken up by 

 trenching or double digging, and 

 coarse sand or coal ashes added to the 

 top soil to lighten it. Early in spring, 

 or preferably in the fall, put on well- 

 rotted barnyard manure, two or three 

 inches deep, and dig or plough it to 

 thoroughly incorporate it with the soil. 

 Previous to planting, break up and 

 smooth out the soil as much as pos- 

 sible — a very important cultural item 

 for most crops. 



Situation. 



The situation is a matter of prime 

 importance. Never plant dahlias in 

 close proximity to large trees which 

 would shade them and rob the soil of 

 its fertility. Avoid the shade of 

 buildings also. Dahlias will grow and 

 give some blooms under such condi- 

 tions, but the results from planting in 

 the open ground away from shade are 

 more satisfactory. 



For general planting, and for those 

 whose facilities for taking care of the 

 green plants previous to planting out 

 are limited, I would recommend field- 



grown roots. Green plants (rooted 

 cuttings), if kept growing right along 

 without a check until planting time, 

 give good results; yet it not infre- 

 quently happens in some way or other 

 they are neglected, become pot-bound, 

 and dry out two or three times. They 

 then become hard and stunted. A 

 stunted ..dahlia is absolutely useless, 

 and to plant such is to invite failure 

 and disappointment. 



In selecting tubers, choose only those 

 of medium size, plump and clean. Only 

 one tuber is necessary; but if there is 

 danger of cutting too near the "eye," 

 the second one may be allowed to re- 

 main. The cut surface should be im- 

 mediately dipped in a saucer of flowers 

 of sulphur, and any that sticks allowed 

 to remain, but do not rub it in. Any 

 bruises or abrasions may also be 

 sprinkled with sulphur. 



Local conditions have a good deM to 

 do in determining the exact time to set 

 the plants out. In the warmer sections 

 of the country, planting can be done 

 much earlier than where late frosts are 

 prevalent. As a general rule, early 

 planting is advisable, but late frosts 

 are to be guarded against, as dahlias 

 are tender plants. The first of June is 



This atone fence, surrounding the garden of Mr. A. Austin, is one of the most beautiful in Toronto. On the wall are Virginia Oreeper, Boston Ivy. 

 English Ivy and Wild Ououmber, which have draped themselveB on the chains. The wall is about two years old and 1,000 feet long. The large vases are 

 thirty-six Inches in diameter. At the bottom of each vase is a receptacle for water from which a galvanized iron pipe runs up to the earth in 



the vase and helps to keep it moist. 



