148 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



June, 1915. 



The same peach tree after pruning. Note the pruning tools used. 



growth, which is tender and will freeze 

 back. If you summer prune too late 

 after growth is stopped, you have lost 

 yoiu- aim, and summer pruning then be- 

 comes a case of early winter pruning. 



In pruning young trees, such as ap- 

 ples, pears, plums amd cherries, whioh 

 bear their fruit on spurs, it is best to 

 use the semi-pyramid form or shape of 

 tree. "We find that fruit trees of this 

 type will carry a crop much easier and 

 of more uniform size and color than the 

 vase or pyramid form of tree. The 

 vase or open tree is a very good form 

 to use for peach trees. The peach tree 

 bears its fruit on one-year-old wood. 

 Thus, in order to keep good strong 

 bearing wood low down on our trees, 

 we muiit prune our trees hard and to 

 an open top. 



The success of our orchards will de- 

 pend a great deal upon the early train- 

 ing of our trees. Endeavor, when pos- 

 sible, to secure one-yeax-old branch 

 trees. The lateral branches on these 

 trees are growing at right angles to 

 the trunk. Head the tree to about 

 twenty-four to thirty inches from the 

 ground, and select three or four of the 

 best side branches ; cut them back to a 

 bud on the top side and about eight 

 or ten inches from the ground. The 

 one-year-old straight or whip tree, 

 w'hen planted, should be cut back to a 

 bud about thirty inches from the sur- 

 face of the ground. If good growth 

 takes place, we will get five or six side 

 branches out from the trunk the first 

 year. The lower branches grow at much 

 wider angles to the trunk than those 

 nearer the top; so remove one or two 

 of the limbs pear the top, so as to 



eliminate the weak crotches; start the 

 first side limb about fifteen inches from 

 the ground, and select three or four of 

 these side branches well spaced on the 

 trunk, and growing as near as ppssible 

 at right angles to the trunk. 



This will form the framework of the 

 tree. Then cut the side branches back 

 to a bud on the top side, and about 

 eight to ten inches from the trunk of 

 the tree. Prune the leader to a bud to- 

 wards the centre of the tree. The leader 

 should not be allowed to become more 

 than a foot longer than the side 

 by cutting back to a weak side limb. 



The pruning of the trees after the 

 first year, and the amount of growth to 

 cut back, will be determined by the 

 pruners. No fixed rule can be followed 

 in their habit of growth. With young 

 trees, up to about the sixth or seventh 

 year, aim to prune to strengthen the 

 framework of the tree and to encour- 

 age fruit spur formation. 



We always find in our trees a num- 

 ber of small lateral branches which 

 are a foot or less in length. By allow- 

 ing these small branches to grow from 

 the terminal bud and not pruning them 

 back, a large portion of the side buds 

 will develop into fruit spurs. By this 

 practice we can force our trees into 

 bearing much earlier. Sometimes we 

 can let our young trees go for one year 

 without pruning back any of the ter 

 minal growth, and encourage fruit spur 

 formation all along the main branches. 

 These main branches can then be 

 strengthened by pruning them back 

 the next year. 



After the trees commence to bear, 

 prune to keep the trees well open to 



allow the air and sunlight into them 

 to strengthen the tree and to<hin the 

 fruit. Aim as nearly as possible to let 

 the fruit regulate the growth of the 

 tree. 



An Amateur's Fruit Garden 



M. B.Davis, B.S..4.. Experimental Farm, 

 Ottawa, Out. 



FOR the amateur fruit grower, 

 summer pruning of trees is to be 

 recommende<]. In small gardens, 

 where it is desired to keep the size of 

 the trees down as much as possible, 

 summer pruning is better than spring 

 pruning. The latter part of June is an 

 excellent time for this operation. 



Bush fruits should have been pruned 

 last month, but if this was neglected 

 they may still be thinned out if neces- 

 sary, especially the old raspberry canes, 

 which should liave been removed la.^t 

 fall. Strawberries. 



The new strawberry plot has prob- 

 ably been set out by this time. Con- 

 stant cultivation will now be neces- 

 sary to assist the young plants in mak- 

 ing plenty of growth. Keep all the 

 blossoms picked off the first year, and 

 as soon as the young runners appear 

 place them in the rows and place a 

 handful of dirt on the top to hold them 

 in position. 



Spraying should have commenepd 

 earlier, but there is still need for it, as 

 insect pests will be continually needing 

 attention. The caterpillars on the ap- 

 ple trees and other tree fruits can be 

 controlled by the use of paris green at 

 the rate of one ounce to eight gallons 

 of water, mixed with a little milk of 

 lime and sprayed on the trees. This 

 wull control all biting insects on trees 

 and bush fruits. For the currant 

 worms, which will be now in evidence, 

 this is excellent, unrtil the fruit sets, 

 when hellebore should he used instead. 



For the aphis or plant lice on the 

 young trees or bushes, kerosene emul- 

 sion made according to the following 

 formula will do well. Tobacco extract, 

 as purchased at the seedsman's, is also 

 excellent and gives a little less trouble. 

 As these are eonitaot sprays, several 

 sprayings may be necessary to control 

 the pest. 



Formula for kerosene emulsion: 

 Coal Oil (Kerosene), 2 gallons. 

 Rain Water, 1 gallon. 

 Soap, One-half pound. 



Dissolve soap in Avater by Iwiling, 

 take from fire, and while hot turn in 

 keiposene and ohum briskly for five 

 mimites. Dilute before use with nine 

 pin.ts of water. 



Old apple trees should be scraped at 

 least once in three years for the re- 

 moval of rough bark that may harbor 

 insect enemies. A hoe, hollowed out in 

 the centre to fit the round of the tree, is 

 the most efficient tool for the purpose. 



