300 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



June, 1915. 



Liiiuin Longiflorum, another snow-white lily with lonp 



June and July. 



trumpet-like flowers, which appear in 



should be thrown into the soil. Cheiiii- 

 cal fertilizers and fresh manure should 

 "be avoided, as they are liable to injure 

 >the bulbs. 



If the soil is naturally light, the best 

 \s ay to prepare a place for the bulbs is 

 lo trench a piece of ground about two 

 feet square, to a depth of about 

 eighteen inches. After the soil has 

 been taken out, a foundation for the 

 bed should be made with pie«es of old 

 broken bricks and stones. Over this 

 place the prepared compost consisting 

 of good loam, leaf mould, and well rot- 

 ted stable mamire, bringing this up to 

 within six inches of the top of the hole. 

 On this give a good sprinkling of sand 

 ind everything is now ready for plant- 

 ing the !>nlbs. Place these in the hole 

 at distances of fourteen inches apart, 

 putting under each biilb a handful of 

 sand, and another handful or two 

 around the bulb. The compost may 

 then be gently filled in, taking care 

 not to disturb the position of the bulbs, 

 and firmly pressed down buit not ram- 

 med. 



An important point to remember 

 when planting lilies is that some va- 

 rieties have two sets of roots, one at 

 the base of the bulb and the other at 

 the base ot the stem. To distinguish 

 this kind they are usually called stem- 

 rooting lilies. They include 1. auratum. 

 1. longiflorum. 1. speciosttm, 1. tigrinum, 

 etc. All these shoaild be planted at a 

 depth of six inches, or so that the top 

 of the bulb is at least five inches from 

 the s\irfaee. Those having roots at the 

 base only, need not be planted quite so 



deep and four inches from the surface 

 "will be sufficient. Many growers plant 

 auratum eight inohes deep, and an ex- 

 ception to the rule is 1. candidum, 

 which is not stem-rooting and must not 

 'be planted more than three inches deep. 

 iMueh depends upon the soil, for in light 

 soils the bull)s may l)e put an inch or 

 so deeper than in a heavy one. In damp 

 situations it is a good plan to plant the 

 loosely-formed bulbs — ^among these are 

 oandidium and speciosum — on their 

 sides. 



If the bul'bs are to be planted in a 

 hardy border or shrubbery, it is not 

 always practicable to trench the bed, 

 and the better way to proceed is to dig 

 a hole large enouigh and deep enough 

 to contain a sihovelful of sand or gravel 

 at the bottom and over this several 

 inches of the compost above mention- 

 ed, surrounding the bulb with sand 

 when planting. If a single bulb is be- 

 ing planted, a large enough hole can be 

 made with a trowel or post-hole dig- 

 ger, treating the hole in the same wav 

 •with sand and compost. The roots and 

 stem will easily find their way through 

 the »and and this porous wall will pre- 

 vent standing water, manure, ferti- 

 lizer, or other injurious substance in 

 tJie soil from reaching the bulb. 



Where it is intended to grow lilies 

 in a collection or to obtain effect from 

 a mass there is no better plan than 

 making a raised bed and edging it vvitii 

 turf. This will both show them off to 

 the best advantage and ensure good 

 drainaffe. 



October is the best month for plant- 



ing most of the lilies, but the iladonua 

 lily, testaceum, and auratum, should i)e 

 put in not later than August or Sep- 

 tember. Once planted, tiie bulbs do 

 not need to be disturbed, and each year 

 become more valuable through the iu- 

 crejising .s])ikes they bear. If left uu- 

 distiirbed the lilies will remain for 

 yeans, and, if desired, the stock can be 

 increased by saving the small bulbs or 

 "off.sets" whioh are formed every year. 

 These may be planted out in the flower 

 Irorder. All that needs to be done is to 

 give a mulch of dead leaves every win- 

 ter when the first frosts .set in, and the 

 groiuul all al)out the bed should be 

 well covered to the depth of a foot. A 

 little soil may be sprinkled over these 

 to keep them in place. "When spring 

 comes round this mulching should be 

 gradually taken away, and when all has 

 been removed, a little bone dust or old 

 niauure may be dug in. After the plant 

 has finished flowering and the steins 

 have begun to drv 1h<»se sli'^'il'l l>r- <-uf 

 off. 



It would be impossible to coiiciutic 

 without a reference to a few other 

 choice kinds— Chalcedoniusn, with its 

 vivid scarlet flowers on tall slender 

 stems; Hansoin, with its deep yellow 

 flo-wers mottled with black; Lancifoli- 

 um rubrum, an exquisite kind, with 

 bright rose-colored flowers dotted with 

 crimson spots, and what is perhaps the 

 prettiest of all the small kinds, Tenni- 

 folium. '"•ith its small brilliant crimson 

 flowers and delicate foliage. 



Tomato Growing for the Amateur 



John G»H, Ingiewood, Onl. 



Neither the farm house nor the town 

 lot should be without tomatoes for home 

 use. They are easily grown, but good 

 seed and good cultivation are the chief 

 factors which lead to success. I would 

 recommend Earliana as the variety to 

 grow. It is extremely early, prolific, 

 smooth, large, of the richest scarlet 

 color, and is not prone to rot before 

 ripening. 



Generally speaking, it is more satis- 

 factory to raise your own plants. Vou 

 will then know what variety you have, 

 and not be disappointed that the "big 

 red kind" which you bought at the 

 greenhouse, proves to be late and a 

 poor bearer. 



Anybody can easily grow the plants in 

 the house window, shifting into large 

 Dots as necessary, and find the work en- 

 joyable. In transplanting to the gar- 

 den, always set them deep. Roots will 

 form wherever the stem t;omes in contact 

 with the soil, thus deep planting not only 

 secures firmer anchorage and more num- 

 erous sources of sustenance, but the 

 deeper the roots sink into the soil, the 

 greater will be the resisting power in 

 time of drought. 



