172 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



July, 1915. 



How the Clematis Jacmanll Flourishes In Northern Ontario. 



This vine was grown by Mr. MacMillan, the president of the Hailey- 



bury Horticultural Society. 



kept daily to see that there is no return 

 of it. It is most prevalent during June 

 and July, and again in October. 



Green and brown aphis, commonly 

 known as rose bugs, are not nearly so 

 troublesome as another parasite of the 

 name. The green and brown fly usu- 

 ally attacks the young growth and 

 leaves during June and July, and does 

 not, apart from its unsightly appear- 

 ance, do much harm to a rose, unless 

 it becomes chronic, when a sticky mass 

 is formed, composed of millions of 

 aphides and their secretions. The most 

 simple remedy for a small collection is 

 the garden hose fitted with a fine noz- 

 zle and supplied with the necessary 

 pressure, which not only washes them 

 off, but the force of the water, if the 

 hand is held at the back of the part 

 being sprayed, kills them. Whale oil 

 soap applied at the rate of a half pound 

 of soap to five gallons of water cold 

 with a sprayer will not only kill the 

 aphis, but it imparts a gloss to the 

 foliage which in a rose is very desir- 

 able. 



There are various kinds of sawflies. 

 Some cause the leaf to curl up, others 

 eat away the leaf or part of it, leaving 

 nothing but its structure, which soon 

 dies and drops off. Others, again, 

 puncture the leaves with holes. The 

 remedy is hellebore powder, one ounce 

 to four gallons of water, with a little 

 molasses mixed in to make it adhere to 

 the foliage, and applied with some 

 strength with a coarse syringe. 



The rose beetle is an insect which 



attacks the young 

 buds. It is also 

 called the bud 

 worm. Hand- 

 picking is the 

 only remedy lor 

 this ])e8t, as it is 

 also for any form 

 of tlie worm or 

 cate)'i)illar. 



T li e d i seases 

 which I have 

 mentioned are 

 the most common 

 amongst outdoor 

 roses, although 

 there are many 

 others, which are 

 not so trouble- 

 some. It must be 

 borne i n mind 

 that any rose, ir- 

 respective of type 

 or variety, is li- 

 able to attacks 

 from these pests, 

 but badly-culti 

 vated and sickly 

 bushes more read- 

 ily succumb to at 

 ■ tacks f black 

 spot and mildew 

 The grower must 

 strive at all times to keep his bushes 

 in a vigorous and healthy state. Avoid 

 over-feeding and stagnation, which are 

 caused by over-watering. At the 

 first sign of anything being wrong with 

 the roses, the remedy must be at once 

 sought for, applied and persisted in 

 until the attack is beaten off and sub- 

 dued. By good cultivation and strict 

 attention to detail, it will be found 

 that success in the culture of the queen 

 of flowers is not a difficult thing to ac- 

 quire after all. 



Flower Pointers 



Leave no vacant places in the garden. 

 Replant for fall use. 



Sow perennial flower seed early in 

 July for next season's flowers. 



Stake gladiolus plants unless they 

 have been planted very deep. 



Early summer-flowering shrubs may 

 be pruned just after flowering. 



Keep sweet peas, pot marigolds and 

 other annuals picked if you would have 

 good flowers all summer. 



Lime of sulphur dusted over rose 

 bushes or other plants that are begin- 

 ning to mildew will often stop the 

 trouble. 



No one should be without a few iris 

 and peony plants in the yard or garden. 

 Probably no two perennials give more 

 satisfaction in their season, year after 

 year, than these. They both come in a 

 wide range of color. 



The Sweet Pea- 



H. M. Ijiy, Walkerton, Ont. 

 Nearly all varieties of sweet peas are 

 benefited by shading during the height of 

 summer. Even in England this is found 

 necessary for such varieties as the 

 Orange and Scarlet. For some of these 

 a very short exposure to the direct rays 

 of the sun is sufficient to disfigure the 

 bloom. Our awnings are made of light 

 weight factory cotton sold at about seven 

 and a half cents a yard, and a yard wide. 

 By means of brass rings sewn on both 

 edges about three feet apart it is ar- 

 ranged to slide on stout supporting 

 wires. These are arranged over the 

 row by means of cross bars with screw 

 hooks to hold the wire. The cross bars 

 are attached to the stakes supporting 

 the trellis work at an angle of about 

 twenty degrees and so that the west side 

 from which the hot afternoon rays of 

 the sun will strike the row, will get 

 most protection. On the approach of 

 rain, of course it is most necessary to 

 slide off your awning, which can be done 

 in a few minutes. 



Insect Enemies. 



The only serious insect enemy the 

 sweet pea has is the green fly, and he can 

 be kept in control by spraying with 

 whale oil soap and water or in bad cases 

 with kerosene emulsion. A twenty gal- 

 lon barrel mounted on wheels with a 

 spray pump attachment, such as is ad- 

 vertised by the manufacturers of spray- 

 ing supplies, enables one to polish off 

 Mr. Aphis with comfort. Two or more 

 rows can be sprayed in one trip down the 

 rows and the whole plantation covered in 

 a very short time. 



Cutting Sweet Peas. 

 In cutting: the blooms of sweet peas 

 a pair of fairly long sharp scissors 

 should be used and a supply of thread 

 rubber bands is handy for bunching. If 

 on cutting a spike it is found that the 

 flowers are more or less wound round 

 with tendrils from adjacent vines, do 

 not attempt to pull the spike by the flow- 

 er end, for in most cases you will break 

 the spike. Seize it by the butt end and 

 pull steadily when it will be found that 

 in most cases the impeding tendrils will 

 break without damage to the bloom. 



When To Cut. 



Peas should be cut early in the morn- 

 ing or in the late afternoon and if possi- 

 ble when there is no dew or rain upon 

 them. Place in water as soon as cut. If 

 it is intended to ship some distance by 

 rail, allow them to stand over night or 

 for several hours in water. When ready 

 to pack wipe the stems dry ; by no means 

 attempt to wrap the stems in any wet 

 material of any kind. The water the 



•Extract from a paper read at the last annual 

 convention of the Ontario Horticultural Asso- 

 ciation. 



