236 



THE CANADIAN HORTICULTURIST 



Floral Edition. 



Hollyhocks bordering a balustrade at Bagnell Hall, Cobourg-. Ont. 



litter to keep out the frost is as good 

 a plan as any. Another method is to 

 store in cellars. This has one disad- 

 vantage, as the celery becomes stringy. 

 The ideal method of storing celery in 

 quantity is to dig a trench deep enough 

 so that the tops are about level with 

 the surface. Cover it with boards, and 

 then earth to mound up, using lea^■os 

 or salt hay in courses between the 

 earth. Cabbage is stored in a similar 

 manner. The whole plant is lifted en- 

 tire, and the heads placed upside down 

 in the trench. The soil is mounded 

 up and the same prortection given as 

 for celery. 



Vegetables Under Glass. 



The first crop of vegetables, such as 

 cauliflower, lettuce, etc., should now 

 be ready for planting in the green- 

 hou.se. Beans may also be sown, also 

 beets and carrots for winter use. 

 Radishes may be sown between the 

 cauliflower in the benches. No rule 

 can be laid down as to the quantity of 

 vegetables one must grow. Bach per- 

 son must work out his or her own 

 schedule of quantities, according to 

 demand and space available. 



Have plenty of seeds on hand and 

 sow often, so as to have continuous 

 crops with a minimum of waste. 

 Plants and Flowers Under Glass. 



Chrysanthemums will be showing 

 color early this month. Fumigate the 

 house thoroughly, just before the buds 

 burst, to insure the flowers not being 

 infested with black fly. Stop giving 

 liquid manure and other stimulants 

 when the buds show color, except for 

 an application or two of soot water to 

 improve the color, using a seven or 

 eight-inch potful of soot to a barrel of 

 water. Be sure and have the house 

 dry at night, or moisture will condense 

 on the petals of the flowers and cause 

 them to damp off. 



Go over your stock of bedding 

 plants, such as coleus, geraniums, 



alternanthera, and see that they are 

 not being neglected. Your next sea- 

 son's supply depends upon these 

 plants, and if they are neglected now 

 one cannot expect them to come 

 through the winter satisfactorily and 

 later furnish material for propagating. 



Mignonette and antirrhinum that 

 have been recently benched should be 

 kept growing by keeping the soil well 

 worked around the plants. Keep in- 

 sects in check by timely fumigating, 

 and maintain an adequate tempera- 

 ture. Forty-five to forty-eight degrees 

 at night is Avhat these plants require, 

 with a rise of from ten to fifteen de- 

 grees, with sun heat during the day. 



All pot plants, such as calceolarias, 

 cinerarias, cyclamen, and primulas, 

 should be placed on the benches where 

 they are to be flowered. They must 

 have good care in regard to watering; 

 in fact, all plants indoors need care 

 exercised in this respect now that the 

 dark days are advancing. Keep a 

 sharp lookout for insect pests and be 

 prompt in applying a remedy should 

 you find any. No feeding should be 

 done at this time if good rich soil was 

 used when potting. 



Poinsettias require an even tempera- 

 .ture of sixty degrees at night or they 

 will lose their bottom leaves. 



Jerusalem cherries that were potted 

 up from the garden early last month 

 will now have established themselves 

 in their pots. Give them a sunny posi- 

 tion, so that the berries will ripen up. 



Continue to pot up bulbs to provide 

 for a succession of bloom. Place +'ie 

 pots in a cold frame and cover with 

 four or five inches of coal ashes until 

 the bulbs are well rooted. 



A Western Garden 



Mrs. H. Lyg, Dauphin, Man. 



I wanted to find how many varieties 

 of flowers could be grown in my garden 

 from year to year, that would give a 

 succession of bloom for the whole sea- 

 son and there is no bed in the garden 

 that is of more interest or more beauti- 

 ful, though I have a few treasured 

 plants in particular nooks that are prov- 

 ing that we don't know yet what we 

 can grow. In the spring 1 had auriculas 

 and polyanthus full of bloom that had 

 been out all the winter and in one cor- 

 ner I had a little patch of Canadian 

 maiden-hair fern, imported from Mount 

 Eoyal (Montreal), and it grew as 

 if it belonged here. I also had some 

 thriving foxglove plants, but they did 

 not bloom, though the foliage was 

 strong. 



In August my hardy border was a 

 sight ; the front strip where the bulbs 

 and earliest spring flowers had been was 

 a soft mass of annual gypsophila and 

 mignonette. 



The irregularity of my border was 

 pleasing: and the flowers were kept 

 blooming all the seasonN by carefully 

 cutting the old ones off. By this me- 

 thod, of course, no seed was saved, but 

 until freeze up the delphiniums especi- 

 ally were a sight, the Oriental and Ice- 

 land poppies were blooming again, the 

 Canterbury bells and dianthus were still 

 in bloom, in fact, the only ones (such 

 as iris and columbines) that were not 

 blooming were doing their share to keep 

 lip the pageant of beauty with their 

 foliage. Even in the first week of Sep- 

 tember I picked a few stray pyrethrums 

 and in the far corner our old friend, the 

 sunflower, turned its stately head. 



1 often think that if the association 

 of flowers with the history and myths 

 of the past were better known, they 

 would be still more interesting than 

 they are. 



A border of this kind, with so many 

 plants fairly close together, needs care- 

 ful preparing before it is planted. The 

 earth must be rich — plenty of old, well- 

 rotted stable manure was used for this 

 one and nearly all the plants were put 

 in in the fall. 



Curi-ants and gooseberries are best 

 pruned in October or November. Re- 

 move some of the oldest fruiting canes 

 each year or the bush will soon become 

 too dense. 



Potatoes should be dug in dry 

 weather, so that they will be dry when 

 they are taken into the cellar. If they 

 are diseased, the disease mil not 

 spread so rapidly among dry potatoes. 

 If the potatoes are known to be dis- 

 eased in the field, it is best to leave 

 them in the ground as long as possible, 

 so that diseased potatoes may more 

 readily be seen and separated from 

 sound ones before they are taken into 

 the cellar. Potatoes should be stored 

 for best results in a dry, cool, well 

 ventilated cellar. 



