CHAPTER XVIII 



Fox-hunting in North Wales. — Two distinct Varieties of Partridges to 

 be found there. — Parvenu Encroachments on the old Hunting- 

 Grounds. — Woodcocks and Grouse. — Climate and Provisions. — 

 Poaching in the Rivers. — A Pack of North Wales Fox-hounds. 



It may prove an instructive lesson to English Masters 

 of fox-hounds, and to those sticklers for all the outward 

 pomps and state ceremonies attendant upon, and con- 

 sidered indispensable to, our huge, overgrown fox- 

 hunting establishments in England, to know how the 

 chase of the fox is carried on among a people who stiU 

 speak the language, and very many of them still preserve 

 the manners and customs of their forefathers. English- 

 men will be slow to believe that amidst the mountainous 

 districts of North Wales the race of ancient Britons 

 yet exists, unalloyed with other blood, and that there 

 are thousands of the peasants and small farmers to whom 

 the Enghsh language is an unknown tongue. Such, 

 however, is the fact, beyond cavil or dispute, and a very 

 unpleasant fact for an Englishman to discover when 

 losing his way amongst these mountains. I have during 

 my rambles through the country met with numbers to 

 whom I could only make known by signs and gestures 

 my wants and wishes ; for to all my inquiries one 

 answer alone was returned — " Dim Sassanach," which 

 means, " No Enghsh." 



The original Welsh people are decidedly a fine race 

 of men, with powerful frames, of simple habits and 



i8o 





