108 CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. 



rather a fine appearance. There were a large number of 

 vessels in the harbor, giving an idea of the extensive trade 

 of the city. 



When we landed, we found the wharves covered with 

 heaps of hides, the chief article of export. People in 

 every variety of costume, from that of an official dignitary 

 to that of the Gauchos of the Pampas^ and the tow trowsers 

 of the toiling negro were to be seen ; some bustling about, 

 and others walking along leisurely, as if this world had 

 no cares for them. Farther up in the town, at least two- 

 thirds of those who were in the streets were mounted on 

 horses, some of which were noble-looking animals. 



The houses were built of brick, white-washed, and with 

 flat roofs, over which a pleasant and even extensive pro- 

 menade might have been taken. The windows were pro- 

 tected by iron bars, causing each mansion to resemble a 

 lock-up house, and forming, indeed, a complete fortifica- 

 tion. Rosas, then the iron-hearted tyrant of Buenos 

 Ayres, resided in a fortress near the river, which had been 

 erected for the old Spanish viceroys. In the centre of 

 the city, is the Plaza, or great square, common to all 

 towns erected by the Spaniards. The houses surrounding 

 it were very handsome. Besides a splendid cathedral, 

 the city could then boast of a number of fine churches and 

 monasteries. The environs had a rather monotonous 

 aspect. 



