INHABITANTS OF THE TYROL. 263 



nervations. After several days of travelling by steamboat, 

 railroad, and stage, we reached a village called Dumpfen, 

 in the Tyrol. Here, in the midst of mountain scenery of 

 the most stupendous description, we resolved to halt. 



The village was nestled cosily under the grand belt of 

 pines which feathered the flanks of the mountains which 

 rose high and clear behind. In front, roared, rattled, 

 and groaned a wide glacier torrent, the color of ill-made 

 gruel ; and on the opposite of the river stretched, about a 

 quarter of a mile, a flat plain of gravel and worn boulders, 

 here and there gemmed with patches of short, sweet turf, 

 till it reached the base of a noble range of clifis, which 

 rose gray and steep into the clear blue sky, so lofty, that 

 the fringe of old pines along their summits could scarcely 

 be distinguished. I was greatly pleased with the appear- 

 ance and manners of the villagers. The men were gene- 

 rally tall, finely propornoned, and evidently almost as 

 strong as lions, and as agile as cats. Their costume was 

 very picturesque, but it is too well known to need any 

 description here. They were firm and proud in their 

 bearing, the very personifications of independence ; but 

 courteous and hospitable. The women were the perfection 

 of mountain belles, having generally dark brown glossy 

 hair, clear, blooming complexion, and speaking hazel eyes. 

 In manners they were even more courteous and sociable 

 than the men. Mr. Barrill informed the villagers who we 



