A EIDE TO BABYLON. 381 



across the Euphrates by a bridge of boats, whose un- 

 even planks, rattling beneath our horses' feet, first 

 tilted, then gaped, and obligingly gave us a good 

 broad glimpse of the bright waters gleaming below. 

 This sort of roadway would have proved trying to 

 the nerves of most horses. I came to the conclusion 

 that our horses had no nerves, and never could have 

 had any. Poor beasts ! " Nerves " were not to be 

 reckoned among their numerous ailments. The way 

 they scrambled across that bridge, stumbling at every 

 other step, as they struck their feet against the tilting 

 planks, poking first a fore leg down a hole, then 

 dropping a hind leg, then up again and boldly on- 

 wards, as if nothing in the world had happened, was 

 a thing to be remembered. "We took up our quarters 

 finally in a large airy house, built close on the river 

 bank. This house, belonging to the Hillah Pasha, 

 had been placed at oiir disposal immediately he heard 

 that strangers had arrived. Whether it was that the 

 Pasha was really indisposed, or that our visit to 

 Hillah happened to be at a time of a rigorous fast, a 

 period of time when the Pasha was supposed to be 

 very sharp set, and in no mood to receive strangers 

 under his roof, I know not ; but we did not, owing to 

 one of the above reasons, pay the usual visit of cere- 

 mony. That is to say, for the space of what is 

 usually one mortal hour, we were not bepiped, and 

 besherbeted, and becoffeed, under the august eye of 

 a turbaned Turk "on hospitable thoughts intent." 



