A RIDE ACROSS THE PELOPONNESE. 165 



faces, filled our sails, and called forth from the glassy 

 surface of the water that avrfpiOp-ov ye'A.aojaa that 

 countless laughter of which Greek poets never tired 

 of singing. 



How vividly did the words of these same poets 

 come home to us as we gazed at the mountains, and 

 coasts, and islands which lay around our path ! 

 Hardly one but had its story to tell. Behind us we 

 were leaving woody Zacynthus, Kephallonia, and 

 beyond this again Ithaca, home and kingdom of 

 Odysseus. Far inland we could see Parnassus, loved 

 dwelling-place of the Muses, a snowy ridge faintly 

 pencilled against the sky. South of this, again, rose 

 hoar Kyllene. Just opposite to us on the left stood 

 our old friend of the morning, Erymanthus ; while 

 away down to the south glittered a fourth snow-peak 

 Lycaon sacred to Pan, and, as some say, the 

 nursing-place of Zeus himself. 



Perhaps nothing in the whole of our journey made 

 one realise so clearly, as did this panorama, the small- 

 ness of Greece. "Who, for instance, would have 

 supposed that Parnassus was visible from Zacynthus 

 and Ithaca, when the map shows us that it is separ 

 ated from either place by a distance of at least 100 

 miles'? 1 



About half-past five we rowed into Katakolo Bay, 

 and at last set foot in real Hellas. It was a lovely 



1 A similar surprise awaited us when we found that the 

 Acrocorinthus could be seen from the Athenian Acropolis. 



