A RIDE ACROSS THE PELOPOXNESE. 167 



We had been promised entertainment in the shape 

 of a performance of "Hamlet" in Greek, at the 

 Theatre Eoyal of Pyrgos. But unfortunately, it 

 being Passion Aveek, old style, we found the theatre 

 closed. 



About eight o'clock next morning (April 5) we set 

 off on horseback for Olympia. At first the road lay 

 through a richly-cultivated plain ; then ascending a 

 little, we passed through a picturesque break in a low 

 range of hills, into the valley of the Alpheus, and 

 were soon in sight of the famous plain of Olympia. 

 It is a rich alluvial plain, covered with luxuriant 

 vegetation, and watered by the Alpheus, which comes 

 down loaded with soil from the Arcadian mountains, 

 and receives, just below the point where in former 

 times the temples stood and the games were held, the 

 waters of the Cladeus, rushing down from the hills 

 of Elis. Green hills, covered with trees, stand 

 around the plain, broken only by these two river 

 valleys. One low knoll, rising immediately to the 

 northward of the Alpheus, is Mount Kronion. Greek 

 legend tells us that here Kronos had his seat, and 

 that in memory of his overthrow these Olympian 

 games were instituted by Zeus, his son and van- 

 quisher. At the foot of this hill was the Altis, the 

 sacred grove, where stood statues and altars innumer- 

 able ; while between this and the Alpheus stood the 

 three great temples of Olympian Zeus, of Hera his 

 wife, and of the Mother of the Gods. 



