172 TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT. 



menes, Pausanias says that he was second only to 

 his contemporary Phidias, in the making of statues. 



When we had seen the sculptures, we mounted 

 again and rode up to Druva, the little village above, 

 where we were to lodge for the night. There, in the 

 little house which did duty for an inn, a lamb, 

 roasted whole, was set before us. We had here, 

 also, our first experience of resined wine, a liquor 

 which we could only liken to furniture-polish ! It 

 was a relief to get a drink of new milk, which was 

 brought to us in a huge wooden bowl, after Homeric 

 fashion. 



In the afternoon we again made our way down to 

 the temple, and spent an hour or so wandering about 

 amid its ruins. The day, which had hitherto been 

 bright, had now clouded over, and the air was very 

 oppressive. Somehow this gloomy atmosphere seemed 

 more in keeping with the present desolation of the 

 scene than the bright sunlight of the morning. There 

 was something solemn in the stillness. In the morn- 

 ing workmen had been hurrying to and fro like ants, 

 some with spades and pick-axes, others with wheel- 

 barrows. Now these men, some 200 in number, had 

 been paid off, and dismissed to keep the approaching 

 feast of Easter. We were the only living beings in 

 the place. Sitting there among the mighty fragments, 

 one came to admire their rugged grandeur and to for- 

 get the hard thoughts which, at first sight, had come 

 into one's mind, because they were not what they 



