A HIDE ACROSS THE PELOPONNESE. 179 



fasting. The more independent he can make himself, 

 by carrying with him both provisions and bedding, 

 the better it will be for his peace of mind and body. 

 I would not recommend a too absolute reliance on 

 the invigorating powers of Greek air ; though I may 

 myself gratefully admit that this divine ether stood 

 to me in the stead of food and sleep to an extent in 

 which nothing but personal experience could have 

 made me believe. 



Next morning (April 7) we started, in heavy rain, 

 for Bassae. Our way lay southwards, over the moun- 

 tains behind Andritzena. The country was remark- 

 able for its wild grandeur. The bare grey hillsides 

 Avhich surrounded us were streaked here and there 

 with rich colour, either of newly-turned earth, or last 

 year's bracken, or oak-trees with clumps of yellow- 

 green misletoe shining amid their dead leaves. The 

 rain, which fell in torrents, did not damp our spirits, 

 but seemed rather to suit the character of the scenery, 

 and to add a delicious freshness to the air. At last 

 the path, which had been winding steadily up, be- 

 came steeper and rougher as we climbed to the top of 

 the ridge, our horses picking their way with difficulty 

 among the loose boulders. 



It had now begun to clear; and the sun shone 

 brightly out as we came suddenly in sight of the 

 temple of Apollo, standing on a rocky platform some 

 fifty feet below. 



Xo more striking site could be imagined. The 



