A RIDE ACEOSS THE PELOPONNESE. 187 



one of trimness. In the centre is a large square, like 

 an English village-green, at one corner of which rises 

 a tall cypress, soaring heavenwards like some dark 

 campanile. 



We were armed with a letter from a friendly 

 doctor at Andritzena, to the demarchus or mayor of 

 the village. For this dignitary we at once made in- 

 quiry of the crowd, who quickly surrounded us when 

 we rode on to the "green" at about six o'clock. 

 After some consultation, a fine young fellow, magni- 

 ficently clad in native costume, strode up to us with 

 a kingly air, beckoned us to follow him, and led the 

 way to his father's house, where, in the absence of 

 the demarchus, we were to be lodged. We were 

 shown into a large reception-room, richly furnished, 

 with fine rugs thrown about upon couches and on the 

 floor. This room was placed at our disposal ; and, 

 after our late quarters at Andritzena, it seemed a 

 very palace. Leaving here our baggage, we went 

 out with our young host and various dignitaries to 

 see all that was to be seen. A dance, which they 

 asserted to be Pyrrhic, first attracted us to a corner 

 of the green, where two concentric circles, women 

 inside and men outside, were going round hand-in- 

 hand, with a kind of swinging step, to the sound of 

 two melancholy pipes and a drum. The women were 

 not very striking in personal appearance, and their 

 costume was decidedly uncomely. They wore ill- 

 fitting silk dresses, of the shapeless cut which was 



